WHILE the UNESCO heritage site of
Dubrovnik may be the image that graces the covers of Croatian guide books, a
trip to the northern peninsula of Istria offers a dream break for sightseers,
foodies, wine tasters and outdoor enthusiasts.
I picked Istria as our
destination for a September getaway solely because the flight times suited our
needs - what a successful gamble it proved to be.
After the long and laborious
journey to Stansted via a Plymouth Argyle away defeat in Stevenage, we
struggled our way through the airport’s frankly shockingly inept passport and
security control to finally board our flight.
Based a five minute bus ride
outside the working port of Pula, our hotel (Splendid Resort) though basic,
offered stunning views of the Adriatic, good transport links and spacious
rooms.
Temperatures around the mid-20s
kept us sunned throughout the week as we made our way around the rugged,
spectacular peninsula.
Pula itself, though a busy dock,
offers quaint cobbled streets, a constant buzz of activity and a glorious old
Roman amphitheatre that once welcomed crowds of up to 40,000 people.
From Pula (where we ate well each
evening) we daytripped to the Brijuni Islands, the former playground of
Yugoslav leader Tito.
The islands were green and unspoilt,
but the majority of tours do not let you off to explore them. Unfortunately I
paid for a tour that didn’t stop so can only advise that others do their
homework first.
After a hearty meal of pork chops
and cabbage on board we disembarked at a beach packed with German
holidaymakers.
Although the beach was
unremarkable and pebbled (as the majority of Croatian beaches are), we took the
short walk into the coastal town/village (it’s not very big) of Fazana.
Fazana is a picturesque harbour
worthy of gracing any postcard, with a church spire towering over the coloured
roofs that look out onto the rows and rows of boats.
The following day we made our way
to the active fishing port of Rovinj, which for me, was one of the most
stunning towns I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting.
Fishermen in Rovinj still haul
their catch in each morning from the harbour there after saying their prayers
at Saint Euphemia's basilica, an ancient
church that stands proudly over the town.
Rovinj is inevitably packed with restaurants and sightseers,
but also with beautiful and charming buildings in equal measure which give the
town a unique vibe. The town’s landscape cuts out into the Adriatic and the
wooded area to the south contains great views and hidden beaches and is well
worth a cycle around.
Other day trips included a trip to the cape of Premantura’s
Kamenjak national park which is most scenic and offers fantastic watersport and
cycling opportunities.
Around an hour’s drive away (I paid for a taxi as I’m too
much of a wimp to hire a car overseas) is the Slovenian border.
Five minutes the other side of the passport control are the
towns of Portoroz and Piran.
Portoroz mainly consists of expensive hotels and casinos to
cater for the hordes of affluent Italian visitors, but Piran really is another
jewel of the Istrian peninsula.
Again, a curious egg shaped piece of land that sticks out to
sea, the streets are cobbled, compact and overflowing with character and little
galleries and shops. Orange roofs illuminate the town’s skyline.
One of Slovenia’s few coastal resorts (Italy lays only a
short drive the other side), Piran is well worth a trip for anyone staying in
Istria. Although it might not represent a true snapshot of Slovenian life with
the rest of the country lying inland, it isn’t hard to see why so many people
take time to wander around its streets.
In a nutshell, Istria is laidback and an area of outstanding
beauty with plentiful outdoor pursuits and culinary delights on offer.
A week flew by and left me with a desire to return to Croatia
and hopefully explore some of the inland towns that I was unable to find time to visit.
The food is cheap and Istrian menu is predominantly a mixture
of Italian cuisine and seafood. Although I wasn’t a fan of their speciality
truffles, a special shout must go to one of the restaurants along Pula’s main
drag that served me up possibly the best steak I’ve ever had complete with
garlic butter. Unfortunately its name escapes me so you’ll have to go and
search it out yourself.
