tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86954905326407437332024-02-20T18:01:16.466-08:00I don't know where I'm going, only where I've beenCDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.comBlogger127125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-7001138742361240642018-10-02T12:23:00.003-07:002018-10-03T03:00:23.733-07:00Kyiv, Ukraine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Kyiv - The city of a hundred church steeples and seemingly a hundred hills</b><br />
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Bisected by the Dnieper River and known for its religious architecture and monuments, the Ukrainian capital seems to have shot up around many different hills meaning that whichever direction you choose, it's likely you'll be fighting a reasonably steep gradient in order to take in its many sights.<br />
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This latest trip came as the newest installment in my friendship group's quest to explore as much of Eastern Europe, and as many of its football derby matches as possible.<br />
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Sadly due to various factors and the late stage at which it was planned, the trip was far too brief to be able to pass an authoritative judgment on Kyiv as a city break, but what I can do is speak incredibly highly of what we experienced in two afternoons and three evenings.<br />
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Our hostel was located at the foot of Andriivs'kyi Descent, a winding and cobbled street which offers a throwback to 'old Kyiv', complete with market stalls selling all kinds of gifts and traditional dress.<br />
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At the top of the descent is the grand St Andrew's Church and also located not so far away is the strikingly shiny St Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery, something I was only able to witness briefly from a passing car due to our time constraints.<br />
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We did however find time to enjoy wandering around Kyiv's streets and rubbing shoulders with locals at the not so tourist trodden street markets.<br />
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As previously touched upon, Kyiv is a mecca for fans of religious architecture, with its many orthodox structures cutting all kinds of shapes into the city's skyline, but for me the most moving sight was Maidan and Republic Square.<br />
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Prior to visiting Kyiv, I watched the documentary Winter on Fire, a production that captured how a civil rights movement erupted after a student protest escalated into a violent revolution which eventually resulted in the resignation of the country's president.<br />
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Thousands of protesters set up camp at Republic Square unhappy with President Yanukovych's decision to turn his back on EU talks and align himself closer to the Russian Government.<br />
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Following the loss of many lives at the hands of Government forces, the staunch will of those who went out onto the street to fight for their futures prevailed and President Yanukovych left his post and fled to Russia.<br />
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Standing at an open space that only a few years ago was the violent scene of such a poignant period of time in the country's history was moving and a reminder that human beings and ordinary people shouldn't be underestimated, particularly at a time of such EU related turbulence and uncertainty here in the UK.<br />
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Finally, and somewhat naturally, after a walk around the historic neighbourhood of Podil, our trip was rounded off with a football match, which in truth, was a somewhat strange experience.<br />
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Sitting just off of Khreshchatyk Street, Kyiv's main boulevard, is the Valeriy Lobanovskyi Dynamo Stadium.<br />
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The stadium is named after the legendary manager who for many years took charge of Dynamo Kiev, the country's most successful team and previously a European football powerhouse.<br />
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These days Dyamo play at the glistening Olimpiyskiy instead of the Lobanovskyi, while the Lobanovskyi hosts Dyamo's reserves and a number of smaller teams, despite Dynamo still owning the ground and its badge being displayed around the ground.<br />
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One of those teams are Arsenal Kiev, a team that has been formed, dissolved and reformed in true Eastern European fashion.<br />
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Although they were the home team I was only able to count a handful of Arsenal fans, with the stands dominated by Dynamo supporters, who as far as I'm aware remain the country's best supported club.<br />
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As is often the case in Eastern Europe, the quality on the pitch is lacking due to the rich getting richer in the west thus creating an increasingly uneven playing field, in financial terms anyway.<br />
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Dynamo were able to run out 1-0 winners despite playing the last 20 minutes with nine men, the goal sparking spectacular scenes in their ultras section which saw an abundance of flares lit, hundreds of blokes stripping to the waist on a cold night and a few fireworks let off for good measure.<br />
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The stadium itself, although dated, lies behind a grandiose gate and is a throwback to the stadiums of years gone by. For me, the highlight of these trips are seeing the pyrotechnic displays and non-stop chanting of ultras and contrasting it to the sanitised atmosphere of football here in the UK where I am not even able to get a bottle top into the stadium.<br />
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So with a plethora of sights and iconic buildings, cheap prices and a pumping nightlife, there are many reasons to venture to Kyiv and Europe's far eastern reaches.<br />
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All in all, although due to time restraints we were unable to visit everything in the city we wanted to, it was a thoroughly enjoyable yet brief visit and a perfect stop-gap to keep me going until my dream trip to South America next month.<br />
<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-922461781004640232017-10-04T03:24:00.000-07:002017-10-04T03:24:02.256-07:00Copenhagen/Malmo 2017<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-64384865000587732022017-08-18T01:17:00.001-07:002017-08-18T01:17:30.043-07:00Barcelona terror thoughts<div class="MsoNormal">
At 8am on Tuesday morning I arrived back at my desk but as is
so often is the case after a weekend away, I was here in body but not in spirit.<o:p></o:p></div>
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From Friday evening until Monday lunchtime I had the
pleasure of again staying in the Catalan capital of Barcelona, this time for
the third time in my life.<o:p></o:p></div>
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As a keen traveller and someone who gets away whenever
finances and annual leave allow, I try not to make a habit of going back to the
same place, even twice. I’ve now been to 33 countries and believe that the
world is a huge place with so much out there to explore and no matter how great
a location is, there’s so much unchartered territory around the globe left to
uncover.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Yet, despite this there’s something about Barcelona that
keeps drawing me back. Perhaps that makes me a hypocrite? I don’t mind.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It has now become clear that 13 people have been killed in
an ISIS-claimed terror attack which struck Las Ramblas, the very heart of
Barcelona yesterday afternoon.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The attacker, who is said to still be at large, drove a van
down the vibrant boulevard mowing into pedestrians along the way. Hundreds were
injured, including several more in a separate attack in Cambrils, 120
kilometres away.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Catalan authorities have been left in no doubt that Las
Ramblas was targeted for a specific reason, and that reason is that thousands
of tourists visit the thoroughfare every day, soaking up the city’s unique atmosphere
at the hundreds of bars, restaurants, boutiques and market stalls that line the
avenue as it stretches down to the Mediterranean Sea.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Las Ramblas is a hive of activity, from the street
performers who draw the crowds during the day, to the prostitutes that frequent
the area at night. Las Ramblas really is truly a melting point of cultures in a
city I believe to be one of the most beautiful in the world.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sometimes when pictures of the terror attacks that now all
too frequently take place both in Western Europe and countries such as Iraq and
Afghanistan are beamed to our 24 hour news channels, we are gripped in a kind
of morbid curiosity watching as the death count increases.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Of course we keep our fingers crossed that the death toll doesn’t
rise further and the police are able to arrest all those who played their part
in the planning of the atrocity. Maybe it makes me a cold person or all this crime
reporting at Truro Crown Court has desensitised me, but I usually struggle to truly
emphasise with those who are there.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Well I did previously, but all this changed yesterday.<o:p></o:p></div>
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On Monday morning I took one final walk down Las Ramblas
before heading to the airport and back to my Cornwall home. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I was tired (no more than 15 hours sleep in three nights),
hungover (I lost count of the amount of sangria I drank over the course of the
weekend), broke (it’s not the cheapest city), burnt (I was a bit low on funds
on our beach day and the choice was mojitos or sun cream), slightly annoyed (FC
Barcelona had been trounced by Real Madrid and that tw*t Ronaldo right in front
of me) but despite all of this I was still in love with the city and didn’t want
to come home.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So when I was driving home from work yesterday and heard the
catastrophic events unfolding on the radio, I felt physically sick. What made
it even worse was when I switched on BBC news and saw people running for their
lives up the exact street I had walked down just three days before.<o:p></o:p></div>
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My heart truly does go out to everybody involved and I’ve
been left with one of those feelings that it could have been me. What if the
terrorists decided to attack a few days earlier or even last weekend when it
would have been even busier and I was sat at one of the bars playing cards over
a beer with my friends?<o:p></o:p></div>
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The attackers are cowards, targeting innocent holiday makers
trying to enjoy some sunshine in a bid to escape this insult of a British
summer. Just as I was several days ago. <o:p></o:p></div>
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What alarms me most is how easy it is to hire a van and
cause carnage, I can only pray it doesn’t happen again, however I am not
confident that it won’t.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Will this attack stop me going back to Barcelona? No, never.
We cannot let them win. As is the case in London, Paris, Brussels and now
Barcelona life must go on although we must never forget those who have been
affected.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Barcelona is an enchantingly beautiful city. There’s <span style="background: white;">Plaça Catalunya</span>,
Park Guell, Camp Nou, La Sagrada <span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Família, the Gothic Quarter and so many other amazing sights
to soak up. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Yes
it may get overcrowded and some locals resent the huge influx of visitors but
this won’t stop me loving the city. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Nor
will the acts of a number of pathetic men and I pray that those injured in the
atrocity make full recoveries and the city is able to get back on its feet once
the natural period of mourning comes to an end.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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I don’t care if it makes me a hypocrite, Barcelona, I’ll be
back.<o:p></o:p></div>
CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-63676860627234860262017-08-16T05:56:00.002-07:002017-08-17T10:48:16.916-07:00Barcelona 2017<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Prague, Berlin and Barcelona are all special cases for me.</div>
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Personally, I don’t make a habit of revisiting the same places time and time again, and although I don’t like to be one to bash other people’s travel choices, each to their own as my mother always told me, I struggle to see how people can be content with visiting the same resort each year sometimes not even breaking out of the confines of the hotel itself when there is a whole world out there to explore.</div>
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I have visited Prague and Berlin on two separate occasions, both for different reasons. In Prague’s case I went firstly with an ex-girlfriend and secondly with a group of friends, two entirely different trips I can assure you, whereas I visited Berlin during my first ever foray onto foreign soil on a college trip and then again as the starting point for a three week rail venture around Europe.</div>
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Now, after this weekend’s trip I have visited Barcelona three times, elevating it to the top of the rankings and perhaps even making me a hypocrite, and do I regret my choice? Not in the slightest.</div>
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All three trips centred on football and my fondness for FC Barcelona but at the same time all three trips were so much more than that. During the first visit, with my mother, we attended a relatively low-key game against Sporting Gijon in the magnificent footballing cathedral that is the Camp Nou, as well as taking in some of the city’s man sights including the bustling boulevard of Las Ramblas, the beautiful fountains of Placa Catalunya and the former Roman village area that is the Gothic Quarter, a narrow collection of streets that stretch down to the Mediterranean seafront.</div>
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And despite my love affair with Barcelona, I have had my fair share of bad luck in association with the city starting from when my hero, Lionel Messi, missed my first game after being on the receiving end of a very rare suspension.</div>
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My second dose of bad luck, came during my second visit, and was this time a little more self-inflicted. The spur of the moment trip was booked just over a week before when over several pints we decided to head out for the title decider between Barcelona and Atletico Madrid, again in the Camp Nou.</div>
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At the time, wearing monthly contact lenses (switching to dailies has since been the best choice I’ve ever made), I purchased a bottle of solution small enough to take through airport security only to get into Barcelona, give my contact lenses a scrub before heading out for an evening and the next morning waking up in absolute agony feeling as if I had poured acid into my eye.</div>
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After visiting numerous pharmacists and being unsuccessfully handed several antibiotics, my friend belatedly remembered his then-wife was a nurse and picked up the phone and was told that saline would neutralise whatever on earth was going on in my eye.</div>
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It did, but only on the last day after I had missed out on a night out and spent an afternoon in the stadium looking like a pirate with an eye patch on, pretty much enable to see the action unfolding on the pitch beneath me.</div>
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So, back to the present, last Friday I left home for Bristol a full seven and a half hours before take-off and when I first joined a long tail of stationary traffic making its way out of Cornwall, I was relaxed.</div>
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Gradually the delays became increasingly concerning and the hours continued to pass as my sat-nav took me off the A30 and M5 and through a load of towns and villages which were equally congested in a bid to avoid the tailbacks.</div>
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My phone battery rapidly drained away and then came the realisation that I would be left in a place I wasn’t familiar with no sat-nav, culminating in me missing my flight. With my battery at less than 4% I finally arrived back on the M5, with little time remaining until my flight and that was the moment I began to really fear the Barcelona curse had struck again.</div>
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As soon as I turned off the motorway, with my phone long since dead, I was fortunately met with a relatively straight forward stretch and after following the signs, eventually pulled into the airport with just over an hour to spare after six and a quarter hours of 'driving' under my belt meaning I was left with no choice but to use the express parking right next to the airport at a cost of £150, wasn’t enough to dampen my spirits.</div>
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In fact, with blazing sunshine all weekend compensating for this insult of a Cornish summer, the only damp thing about this exceptional weekend was Barcelona’s performance in the El Clasico Super Cup final, a 3-1 defeat against eternal enemies Real Madrid.</div>
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As has been documented a thousand times in a variety of literature, the rivalry has intensified over the years following the oppression of the Catalan state by central government in Madrid, with the Camp Nou during the Franco dictatorship being one of the only places Catalan people could gather, speak their language, wave their flags, sing their songs and ultimately express their identity.</div>
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These days the hatred and resentment is still there, perhaps fuelled by the fact that along with Atletico Madrid, the pair annually battle it out for the top honours in Spain and on the continent and then there’s also the two aliens that are Lionel Messi and Cristiano Ronaldo smashing every record going, driving each other on to new heights. It’ll be a long time until we see anybody like these two again so enjoy them while they’re both still lacing up their boots.</div>
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The first half of the game was uneventful with little action to speak of, but it was odd to see Real Madrid shirts dotted among the home support, a sight unthinkable in other European countries where away support in home sectors would have to be disguised and muted to ensure any form of personal safety. Although the atmosphere was good, watching football is Spain is more like going to the theatre than into a warzone.</div>
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Fortunately for us, but not for Barcelona who look like they need some serious work if they are to push the back-to-back Champions League winners from Madrid for trophies, the game exploded into life.</div>
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First Gerard Pique inadvertently turned a cross into his own net before Messi restored parity from the penalty spot. The game then turned with the introduction of Ronaldo, who scored with a rocket from range before earning a yellow card for stupidly taking his shirt off during his celebrations, and then he saw red after being penalised for a dive. Whether he dived or not looked questionable from our vantage point but he then appeared to shove the ref, for which he has since received a five match ban. Marco Asensio then sealed a 3-1 advantage going into the second leg with an even more breath-taking strike.</div>
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All-in-all, we enjoyed quite the weekend. Some fantastic nights out in the clubs and bars of Las Ramblas and the Gothic Quater where we had the pleasure of meeting some great people and even ending up indulging in a spot of late night drunken swimming, ticking El Clasico off the bucket list and wandering the wide open avenues of the Catalan capital in blazing hot sunshine. We also temporarily reached heaven sitting on Barcelona beach, sipping beers in the Sunday afternoon sun.</div>
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As always, the city was easy to navigate with its expansive underground rail links, and despite reports of hostility from locals towards tourists, everybody we met was welcoming and hospitable. Especially the friendly staff at the delightfully named Bollocks rock bar, which is possibly now my favourite bar in the world.</div>
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My only parting piece of serious advice would be if you are planning on visiting Park Guell to capture that Instagram money shot of the colourful mosaics in front of the city skyline that stretches down to the ocean, make sure you book tickets in advance as when we arrived (reasonably early may I add), tickets to get to the front of the vantage point had sold out until the next day despite there not seeming to be a large amount of people kicking about.</div>
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So yeah, Barcelona for a third time, not something I’ll be making a habit of as the world is a big place and I want to visit as many countries as I can while I’m still young and able, but if anybody is pondering over a weekend away which combines electric nightlife, some of the best football in the world (most of the time), and a beautiful city rich in culture and history then look no further than Barcelona, you may even end up going more than once.</div>
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CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-72657700631908928112017-06-14T06:39:00.001-07:002017-06-16T00:12:26.519-07:00Korçë, Albania and surrounding villages<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Albania must surely have to rank as one of Europe's lesser known countries and I can count on one hand the number of people I know who have visited the strip of land on the Balkan Peninsula which is lapped by both Adriatic and Ionian sea coastlines.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Of those who visited, the majority were on military deployments but all came back raving about a fascinating and beautiful country, where the people are genuinely welcoming and proud to show off their homeland to the rest of the world.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">In fact, to say Albania is fascinating is probably an understatement. </span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Until 1992 the country's borders remained closed and nobody was allowed in and out, meaning that the country is still in its infancy as a travel destination.Albanian citizens were forced to live under the rule of hard-line communist leader Enver Hoxha, who kept control of his populace through a combination of fear, paranoia and brainwashing until his death in 1985 of a heart attack.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Farmers were made to hand over the majority of their crops to the state for redistribution and any private enterprises were strictly forbidden. </span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Money was in parts of the country replaced with tokens which would then be exchanged for a carefully regulated amount of goods.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">As you travel through the Albanian countryside you'll notice curious markings in the luscious green mountainside which our informed guide told us was a result of farmers being forced to pointlessly plough even when there were no crops to produce, all in the name of work, discipline and ultimately hardcore communism.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Following tedious passport inspections both leaving Macedonia and entering Albania (between the borders there is a couple of hundred metres of no-man's land), we finally crossed the border near St Naum and entered the city of Pogradec after passing a few tacky looking resorts on the shores of the southerly end of Lake Ohrid.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Pogradec's bustling city centre was an assault on the senses with some locals going about their daily business whilst others hung out on the street corners, selling everything from rugs to live rabbits in an area where unemployment is rife.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">After stopping briefly for a caffeine hit which arrived in the form of a cappuccino, we hopped back on the bus and headed inland towards the student city of Korçë, population 80,000ish.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">A flat tyre resulted in an enforced stop in the Albanian countryside, where we were able to take in the splendid view of country houses backed by the towering mountain landscape.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">The brief pause also allowed for us to examine one of Albania's most common sites, bunkers.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">All across Albania Hoxha built huge bunkers, often in people's front gardens, in a bid to convince his people that the country was under threat of foreign attack and that his word should be followed indefinitely.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Bunkers still lie in gardens, on the side of roads, in fields and in cities and many of them have since the fall of communism and Hoxha's death, been converted into colourful murals and innovative indoor spaces.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">As our bus chugged past the bleak factories and heavy industry that surrounds the perimeter of Korçë, the skies darkened as we pulled into town.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">We again disembarked the bus and set about strolling through the chaotic market where animated salesman peddled out some of the freshest looking produce I've ever seen.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: none; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.6em; margin-bottom: 15px; padding: 5px 0px 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">There was barely room to swing a cat in the market and we soon excited exhausted onto the city streets flanked by that stereotypical high-rise tower block housing, clearly a hangover of the communist regime</span><span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">A couple of twists and turns later and we found ourselves in the newer part of town and what a contrast it was.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: none; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.6em; margin-bottom: 15px; padding: 5px 0px 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">We browsed the modern cobbled streets dotted with bars, restaurants and clothes stores and strolled alongside Korçë's huge student population, who arrive from all over the country to study at the city's universities.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: none; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.6em; margin-bottom: 15px; padding: 5px 0px 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">At the top of the newer end of town sits the grand Orthodox Church of St George, again sitting beneath the imposing mountains.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">In Albania various cultural influences are evident including that of the formerly occupying Ottomans, and these days the south of the country is predominantly Christian and the north, Islam.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">After a thoroughly enjoyable few hours in the hugely contrasting city of Korçë, we headed to the countryside and the settlement of Pustec.</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">In impoverished Pustec we were greeted by friendly locals who even at some points welcomed us into their homes.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: none; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.6em; margin-bottom: 15px; padding: 5px 0px 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Pustec is interesting in that the population is largely aged under 18 and over 40, with the majority of young people leaving the rural areas of the country to move to the city to study and in search of work.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: none; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.6em; margin-bottom: 15px; padding: 5px 0px 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Curiously despite parts of Pustec resembling the villages featured at the start of the comedy film Borat, a number of grand houses exist just a short walk from the considerably more modest farmers' shacks.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: none; box-sizing: border-box; clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.6em; margin-bottom: 15px; padding: 5px 0px 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Despite spending less than 12 hours in just a small part of Albania, the visit left me wanting more.Known mostly for the mafia and dodgy roads (a lot of improvements seem to have been made to road surfaces), Albania is a melting pot of culture, friendly locals, natural beauty and a rich and varied history and I would wholeheartedly recommend anybody with an interest in the region to go and discover for themselves how a country can find its feet after emerging from the dark shadow of communism.</span></div>
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CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-81644575279432640692017-06-14T06:29:00.001-07:002017-06-16T00:17:22.764-07:00Ohrid, Macedonia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Although its name may sound like an ancient kingdom out of a
Terry Pratchell novel, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia undoubtedly
boasts one of Europe’s richest areas of breath-taking natural beauty, that of
Lake Ohrid and its array of surrounding settlements and national parks.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
As is often the case I was alerted to this semi-hidden gem
whilst browsing a Lonely Planet article detailing 2017’s must visit locations.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
A quick Google search was enough to convince me that I
needed to get to Ohrid, especially as my list of European countries that I had
yet to visit was quickly diminishing and within the space of a few weeks the
trip was booked.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Touching down at the minuscule Ohrid Airport I didn’t have a
great deal of idea what to expect, other than excellent photographic vantage
points from which to capture the grandeur and beauty of the lake which measures
34 kilometres in length and at certain points, 300 feet in depth and is home to
tonnes of species of fish and other water-based creatures.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Known for being the home to many beautiful churches which
number well into the hundreds, Ohrid town itself is a charming collection of cobbled
streets and an atmospheric old quarter which cascades gently down the side of a
hill.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
From our base at the charming Villa St. Sofija we were able
to comfortably navigate the sites of the UNESCO listed old town on foot, taking
in the spectacular views from St Clement Church and towering Tzar Samoil’s
Fortress which looks over the town, as well as checking out the old amphitheatre and scores of medieval buildings,
many of which are still homes to locals ensuring that the town still has a
lived-in feel.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
The boardwalk to Kaneo allows for easy access to the fishing
village packed with restaurants and small beaches and following the boardwalk
further is an absolute must, as it leads to The Church of St Jovan of Kaneo, a medium sized place of worship (by Ohrid standards) with behind it
an excellent vantage point allowing visitors to capture that postcard Ohrid
image of the church overlooking the pristine waters of the lake.<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
As is the case with all of the previous former Yugoslav
states I have visited, the locals were exceedingly welcoming and intrigued by us with an excellent
command of the English language.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Naturally Ohrid does welcome its fair share of international
visitors (mainly Dutch), but is still just about worthy of being dubbed a ‘hidden
gem’, with crowds not yet becoming overwhelming.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
A range of traditional and international bars and restaurants line the
waterfront dotted with local captains offering boat tours of the lake and the nighttime scene keeps kicking into the early hours, particularly at the weekends.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
With an average wage of around 250 euros a month, western
visitors can enjoy excellent value with a bottle of beer pricing around a £1
and a good feed available for less than £5 a head.<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
No trip to Ohrid is complete without a dip in the crystal
clear lake itself, and as difficult as it may sound, try not to be put off by
the chilly early summer water and the snakes which can be seen pouncing on some of the unsuspecting smaller
fish.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Once we’d spent a day exploring the old town, we decided to
take a tour to the ancient Orthodox monastery of St Naum, stopping on the way
at Trepejca, the St Tropez of the Balkans, a small village which comes alive during the summer months and
again offers yet another great spot to try and snap a photo which does justice
to the lake’s incredible beauty.<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
A little further afield between Ohrid and the capital Skopje,
but absolutely undoubtedly worth the two hour drive is Macedonia’s (interestingly
the only state to leave Yugoslavia without a war) biggest national park,
Mavrovo.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
As well as being the home to bears and lynxes, Mavrovo
offers crisp air and stunning views (again) of Macedonia's highest peak, Mount Korab, which reaches 2,764 metres above sea level.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
After a stop at the Albanian feeling town of Debar, we enjoyed a look around Sveti Jovan Bigorski, probably the best
situated monastery in the world, perched high up a valley, interestingly right across
from a mosque meaning that at times both the monastery’s bells and the mosque’s
call to prayer can be heard at the same time.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Mavrovo also offers skiing during winter months and is also
the site of a number of small traditional mountain villages with an authentic
feel of remoteness and detachment from the real world. Scruffy shepherds herding their flock along potholed roads are a reminder that life in the national park area for many, remains unchanged by the evolving world going on around them.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
The catch with Mavrovo and indeed Ohrid being, that if you're anything like me, you'll fall in love with any one of a number of the stray dogs, all of whom did though seem to be friendly and well-fed.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
As a sucker for Yugoslav history and travel (Kosovo is now the
only state I haven’t yet visited), it was perhaps inevitable that I would end up
visiting Ohrid when travelling to Macedonia, but I’ve also heard rave reviews
of the capital of Skopje, said to be a cultural melting pot complete with
bustling bazaars and markets.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Ohrid and its surrounding areas are certainly must-visit spots for
nature lovers, culture junkies and religious folk and visiting you cannot help
but be swept away and marvel at the picturesque setting, with every turn unearthing a new view that will have you reaching for your camera yet again.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Following last year’s introduction of flights from London
Luton it is undoubtedly only a matter of time before more Brits clock on and follow the lead
of the Dutch and pack up and head off in their masses to take up a spot on the
shores of the placid lake. So my advice would be get to Ohrid and do so quickly before the crowds grow to the intolerable levels seen in the likes of Dubrovnik
and prices begin to rise to match.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-65450236807381864662017-03-08T06:36:00.000-08:002017-03-08T08:15:26.978-08:00Timisoara March 2017<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNbq7BGYevM8f2qXLcoGOxHrQ-qUf9D-7CEGGko7dQrjejmIpWTJIXdqDlTmYnUWx9oybL9XGr_7ozLxz4MG66l4Xcfc2MrE7etH87j3jxkefrzRYFbxc3JxxmUyxyjMoiNKbt1swpKQ/s1600/IMG_3640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNbq7BGYevM8f2qXLcoGOxHrQ-qUf9D-7CEGGko7dQrjejmIpWTJIXdqDlTmYnUWx9oybL9XGr_7ozLxz4MG66l4Xcfc2MrE7etH87j3jxkefrzRYFbxc3JxxmUyxyjMoiNKbt1swpKQ/s320/IMG_3640.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
It doesn’t feel quite right putting together any kind of
review for a city in which I spent less than 24 hours but I thought I would try
and at least throw some words together about the Romanian city of Timisoara,
and just let the pictures do the rest.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our arrival into the city couldn’t have been any more
stressful and we would have probably been kicked off a train into the bleak
Romanian countryside for not purchasing our tickets correctly had it not been
for the intervention of a kind young couple.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We eventually arrived nonetheless and eventually navigated
our way from the city’s main train station into the city centre which more than
300,000 call home.<o:p></o:p></div>
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After a much-needed catch-up sleep we hit the streets and
enjoyed a few hours browsing the student city dominated by the Timisoara
Orthodox Cathedral and smaller St George’s Cathedral.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Timisoara is spotlessly clean and feels like a pretty relaxing
place to call home with its slow pace of life.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Students sit around chatting and sipping coffee while locals
casually go about their day to day lives.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The city is strikingly beautiful with lots of wide open
spaces and is the historic capital of the region of Banat. Much like Belgrade,
where we had come from, it was refreshingly cheap.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We enjoyed a few hours sitting and strolling in the sun and
the time in Timisoara, a former European Capital of Culture, almost felt like a city detox after Belgrade’s high
octane hustle and bustle.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
Timisoara has also played an important part politically having in the late 1980s seen the birth of a country-wide demonstration which led to the overthrow of dictator Nicolae Ceausescue, and again recently been the scene of gatherings protesting about government corruption.</div>
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In an ideal world we would have had a little more time to
look around, but I still think myself lucky to have had the chance to at least
briefly sample life in Romania’s third city which I can only imagine is a world
away from the capital of Bucharest and considerably more picturesque. <o:p></o:p></div>
<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-30659276468110685602017-03-08T06:31:00.000-08:002017-03-10T07:34:55.009-08:00Belgrade February/March 2017<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A nation often dubbed as the bad guys in the Western media following the brutal conflicts in Bosnia and Kosovo, it (as usual) came as a surprise to many when my friends and I announced that the Serbian capital of Belgrade would be our choice of destination for early 2017.</div>
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Having visited Bosnia and heard first-hand about some of the atrocities committed by Serb forces as they strained to hold a rapidly disintegrating Yugoslavia together, I was a little apprehensive (though not judgemental as massacres were routinely carried out on both sides), about the reception we would be greeted with by the Serbs.</div>
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I need not have worried.</div>
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What awaited us was a city that truly never sleeps, where the locals go out drinking and having a good time until beyond the early hours with not even a second’s thought about what time their alarms will sound in the morning.</div>
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The party mentality is said to have derived from Nato’s questionable and highly destructive bombing campaign in the city in the late 1990s, where locals would seize any temporary breaks in the shelling to go out and let their hair down.</div>
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Although not the most beautiful of cities (Belgrade is quite grey and has plenty of stereotypical high-rise socialist housing as well as the odd building still lying in ruins) the city’s fortress is well worth a few hours and consists of the old citadel and Kalemegdan Park on the confluence of the River Sava and Danube.</div>
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The fortress offers some panoramic views of the city which stretches as far as the eye can see despite having a population of just over a million.</div>
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But for me, what really makes the city of Belgrade stand out is the people who live there.</div>
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We spent a lot of time around the Republic Square area where there are plentiful bars and restaurants </div>
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to keep visitors and locals fed and watered.</div>
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The prices offer exceptional value with beer around a pound and a tasty main meal costing under £4, and that gets even cheaper if you head away from the centre of town.</div>
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With the exception of the odd miserable taxi driver, everyone greeted us with a friendly smile and quick chat and we enjoyed nights spent drinking at a Serbian folk club and in local bars and clubs with our newly-made friends.</div>
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Our hostel (Hostel Bongo) was both spotless and convenient, just a couple of minutes away from Republic Square and the team of staff were always on hand to guide us.</div>
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The train journey out of the city and towards the border town of Vrsac was also fascinating, seeing civilisation gradually slip away towards a more traditional and rural way of life.</div>
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I’m not sure whether or not it’s a reputation that stems from past conflicts that stops English people heading to the former administrative capital of Yugoslavia or a fear of the unknown, but with such exceptional value and a population of people who are genuinely happy to see you and show off their city, I’d be very surprised if Belgrade doesn’t begin to feature on the radar of more Brits.</div>
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Just make sure you check out the Balkan special cevapi (grilled mincemeat) and watch out for the local Rakija, a fruit brandy style drink which will knock you for six if you’re not careful.</div>
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<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-35588358734546011462017-03-08T06:11:00.003-08:002017-03-08T07:30:10.906-08:00Crvena Zvezda v Partizan March 2017<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Now I have to admit that I'm not usually one to get scared *beats chest* but as we made the considerable walk from our hostel nestled in the centre of Belgrade, into the suburbs towards Crvena Zvezda (Red Star Belgrade's) Rajko Mitić Stadium, my heart was beating like a drum.</div>
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Even in the city centre (a full two or three miles away) stern faced riot police and soldiers lined every corner ahead of what is known worldwide as The Eternal Derby.</div>
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Our journey to the match started two days earlier when we traveled to the stadium otherwise known as the Marakana in the hope of scoring tickets.</div>
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The 55,538 arena is certainly showing its age having been first opened in 1963, and if you walk around the perimeter of the bowl you will find graffiti daubed by Red Star's most fanatic supporters The Delije (Heroes), piles of rubble and even the odd dead rat.</div>
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A short five minute walk away is Partizan Belgrade's 32,710 ground and between the two bitter rivals, they boast 53 national championships (Red Star's 27 to Partizan's 26), 37 national cups (13 for Partizan and 24 for Red Star) and a European Cup won by Red Star in 1991.</div>
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As a result of the unrivaled riches of the EFL and La Liga, Eastern European football is somewhat in the doldrums with neither Red Star or Partizan having qualified for the Champions League group stages since 2010.</div>
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Teams are made up of journeyman from all corners of the globe, local players who couldn't quite cut it abroad and exciting youngsters who use Red Star and Partizan as a stepping stone west.</div>
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The fixture is famed for the intense hatred between the two sets of supporters which regularly spills over into violent scenes and spectacular pyrotechnic displays.</div>
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The tension as we walked to the game was palpable and we briskly strode in a deafening silence surrounded by the eagle-eyed authorities.</div>
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We tried not to draw any attention to ourselves and ensured we dressed for the occasion, not evidently wearing the colours of either team.</div>
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As we entered the vast bowl of the Marakana we found our seats and sat watching the Delije and Grobari (Partizan's firm The Grave Diggers) assemble, but nothing could prepare us for what to follow.</div>
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At kick off the ground was near enough full, barring rows of seats left unattended in an effort to deter any potential troublemakers from attacking rival fans.</div>
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Both sets off supporters took it in turns to produce breath-taking displays and hurl deafeningly loud abuse at each other.</div>
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Particular highlights were Red Star's sparkler and choreography display and Partizan fans setting off of some sort of giant smoke cloud which held the game up for several minutes whilst the smoke cleared.</div>
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Flares were set off at regular intervals and the displays produced an incredible sight, all this despite police seizing more than 1,000 before kick off.</div>
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I can't even begin to think how many flares would have been held aloft had police not discovered them hidden in the stadium beforehand and it's also worth considering that I struggle to even get a bottle top into grounds in the UK.</div>
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The game itself was ok, sporadic moments of quality coupled with slap-stick play acting and both teams had a number of bright youngsters on show, many of whom I fully expect to one day see in the EPL or Serie A.</div>
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Red Star looked to be heading towards a victory which would have taken them nine points clear of their rivals but Partizan's late equaliser prompted incredible scenes behind the goal and meant that the title race goes on for the time being at least.</div>
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Both sets of fans chanted non-stop for 90 minutes and the noise was like a tidal wave reverberating around the stadium.</div>
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I found myself spending more time watching the action off the pitch than on it and have never experienced such an intense and simply loud atmosphere in all my years.</div>
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After the game we joined the thousands and made our way back to the city centre on foot and despite being borderline petrified on the way to the game, we made our way home safely without a nasty word said in our direction.</div>
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So, if there's anybody out there (like me), who is bored of the sanitised atmosphere of the EPL and is willing to sacrifice quality on the pitch for unrivaled passion off it, then look no further than the Belgrade Derby.</div>
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CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-82081075734821607782017-01-19T07:18:00.000-08:002017-01-19T07:19:02.869-08:00From Anfield Road to Home Park: A Cornish Plymouth Argyle fan's epic tale<div style="box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 10px;">
<span style="font-family: "open_sans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><b>Yesterday evening I was one of 17,048 people lucky enough to get a ticket to the FA Cup Third Round replay between Plymouth Argyle and Liverpool Football Club.</b></span></span></div>
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Ever since fan-favourite Graham Carey converted an extra-time penalty late into a grim December evening in Newport to confirm that it would be The Pilgrims who would face the five-time European champions, much of the South West has suddenly started to take notice of us once again.</div>
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As an Argyle fan since 1998, I have experienced the full range of emotions. The ecstasy of two promotions (Argyle beating Queens Park Rangers 2-0 on a sunny April afternoon in 2004 is still one of the best days of my life), to the two straight relegations down to League 2, a period spent flirting with the abyss of the non-league football and even coming within hours of not having a club at all.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "open_sans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I have seen great players come and go, many sadly leaving for a fraction of the value due to the club's perilous financial situation at the time, and some players seemingly little better than many of those lacing up their boots to play in the local leagues of any given Saturday afternoon.</span><span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "open_sans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box;" /></span><br />
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "open_sans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Last year Argyle came within a whisker of promotion, eventually folding to AFC Wimbledon after more than 30,000 supporters travelled to London and helped paint Wembley green for the play-off final - a game set up following one of the moments that make us love football so much, a last minute-winner against one of our rivals, in this case Portsmouth.</span><span style="box-sizing: border-box;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box;" /></span></span><br />
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "open_sans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="box-sizing: border-box;"><span style="background-color: white;">However, to his eternal credit, manager Derek Adams has ensured both players and fans have all but gotten over the Wembley heartbreak by making a number of shrewd signings such as centre back Sonny Bradley and experienced former Premier League midfielder David Fox and once again steering Argyle to the upper reaches of the League 2.</span><span style="box-sizing: border-box;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box;" /></span></span></span><br />
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The Greens currently sit six points into the automatic promotion places with a game in hand but it has been the FA Cup run that has really got the South West talking.</div>
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Waking up at 3:30am to make the trip to Liverpool, I simply hoped to enjoy a few beers with my friends and prayed that Argyle would be able to keep the score down to anything respectable below 4-0.</div>
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The motorway was a sea of green on the way up and there was a carnival atmosphere in and around the away end with The Green Army in fine voice even in the pubs beforehand.</div>
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More than 8,600 Argyle fans packed into Anfield's away end, a fantastic sight, and comfortably out sung the Anfield faithful from the first whistle to the last.</div>
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Naturally, Liverpool's stars (and there were a few of them present) moved the ball around at ease but lacked the penetration to really test Luke McCormick.<br />
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As the minutes ticked by and ball after ball was cleared, the chances of Argyle earning a lucrative replay became more and more real.</div>
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The scoreboard timer ticked in slow motion and despite a few scares, Argyle held firm and as referee Paul Tierney sounded his whistle the away end exploded. An incredibly proud day to be a fan of Plymouth Argyle Football Club, I couldn't stop smiling for days.</div>
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Earning a replay has earned Argyle an estimated million pounds and while this is nothing for a club like Liverpool, the figure can make all the difference for a League 2 outfit.</div>
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An online search shows that Liverpool's brilliant Brazilian Coutinho earns an estimated £100,000 a week. </div>
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Although I have no official figures to verify this, ever trusty Football Manager tells me that no Argyle player earns more than £2,000 a week.</div>
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Predictably the replay sparked a frantic scramble for tickets and I was contacted by several Liverpool fans asking if I can get them a seat for the visit of one of European Football's true giants.</div>
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Needless to say, I told them that the day was a reward for all the loyal Argyle fans who have witnessed defeats at home to teams such as Morecambe and Crawley or traipsed to towns and cities such as Hartlepool and Carlisle, often enduring eight hour journeys home with little or no footballing reward. I wasn't going to help any Liverpool fans get tickets in the home end and detract from the atmosphere.</div>
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I've said it before and I'll say it again, Argyle's support can only be rivalled by Portsmouth at this level and they have the benefit of being a former Premier League side and FA Cup winners.</div>
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The Green Army regularly numbers more than 1,000 at away games, sometimes amounting to a third of the crowd on the day.</div>
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As the cameras rolled into Home Park, the media circus began and the club tried its best to reward loyal supporters, although it's fair to say there were more than a few teething problems which results in some genuine fans missing out on the game altogether.</div>
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So Wednesday eventually rolled around and every second at work felt like an hour (sorry to whichever of my bosses is reading this).</div>
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I hit the road at 4pm and from the second I stepped out my car in Plymouth I felt like the club was alive again and the city cared. Nothing irritates me more than watching a game in a Devon or Cornwall pub and being surrounded by Manchester United fans who probably have never been to the city or couldn't even point it out on a map.</div>
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Vendors around Home Park pedalled those hideous half and half scarves on every corner and the Britannia pub was one in, one out. Police officers marshalled the sell-out crowd and with the installation of temporary seating on the Mayflower Terrace, Home Park felt like a proper football ground again.</div>
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The anticipation was palpable in the build-up to kick-off and as soon as Semper Fidelis drew to a close, The Green Army started belting the way through its repertoire and how great it was to hear the noise coming from not just the Devonport End but the Mayflower and Lyndhurst too?</div>
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The Liverpool fans, despite numbering well over 2,000 were disappointingly quiet but last night wasn't about them, it was about Plymouth Argyle Football Club.</div>
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Unlike at Anfield, Argyle pushed forward when possible creating a number of opportunities but it was veteran Lucas Levia who headed Liverpool in front, heading in from a corner and finally breaking Argyle's brave resistance.</div>
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The Green Army continued to sing and loud. I especially enjoyed the song directed at the extremely irritating ex-red Steve McManaman who has given Argyle grief whilst commentating on the two ties, not realising that if we attacked at Anfield we would have been taken apart at will and probably on the wrong end of a severe hammering. How on earth he is allowed to commentate on either Liverpool or Real Madrid games when he displays such blatant bias towards his former clubs in beyond me. In my book, sports commentary should be unbiased and insightful.</div>
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Into the second half and Coutinho and Daniel Sturridge departed having had a minimal impact on proceedings and the Home Park faithful collectively held its breath when Jake Jervis came within an inch of forcing extra time when his acrobatic effort rebounded off the post.</div>
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McCormick saved a late penalty from Divock Origi but Argyle failed to fashion anymore clear opportunities and as the final whistle sounded, The Green Army stood to applaud the efforts of the players who fought gallantly and did what many Premier League sides have failed to do, restrict Liverpool to just one goal over 120 minutes.</div>
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Internationals Adam Lallana, Coutinho, Emre Can, Roberto Firmino, Daniel Sturridge, Divock Origi and young starlet Ben Woodburn all tried and failed and it was a player who hadn't scored since 2010 who eventually proved the difference between the sides.</div>
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As I walked away from Home Park last night and proceeded to get stuck in road works on the A38, I couldn't help but reflect on how the feel-good factor is finally returning to Home Park and how the South West and the footballing world is once again taking notice.</div>
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The atmosphere last night was absolutely electric and if Argyle perform as they did over the two games against Liverpool in the remaining League 2 fixtures, we'll finally be out of that wretched league at a canter.</div>
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With all due respect we deserve better than to be playing clubs some of the clubs in League 2 who average as few as 3,000 fans for each home game.</div>
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The demand for tickets for the Liverpool games shows that if the players and manager are doing the business on the pitch, the people of Cornwall and Devon, and those exiled around the country, will soon jump back on the band wagon.</div>
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Things are definitely looking up and for the first time in years, it's exciting to be an Argyle fan and the feel-good factor is most definitely back.</div>
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The Liverpool games have created some incredible memories that will stay with me for life but it is absolutely vital that the team really kicks on and secures promotion. Any less than that and despite the Anfield heroics, the season will be seen as a failure, especially given the gap that currently exists between the automatic promotion places and play-off spots.</div>
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We have the right manager, a good squad even if a little depleted through injury at present, and people steering the club with Argyle's best interest at heart, as is evident with Simon Hallet's multi-million investment to redevelop the Mayflower Stand.</div>
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I'll be at Cheltenham on Saturday singing my heart out for The Greens. We're Plymouth Argyle and we're most certainly on our way back.</div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "open_sans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box;" /></span>CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-63672607013865753022016-09-19T08:54:00.002-07:002016-09-19T12:24:58.536-07:00Montenegro - September 2016<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfjSX9M4cECWJ0LOBznmGz9luiyO-7kJiHSJPhQ2-l9xLvNw1PGdiSQ-7Lmokx7P3ZQ0fYgQVyvC-iOVBakhfbzv7KaFhFUeK1WLrXCJ_lp9yLcszn3_WOzryAmhuPGIPual5HOn77Mk/s1600/IMG_2818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfjSX9M4cECWJ0LOBznmGz9luiyO-7kJiHSJPhQ2-l9xLvNw1PGdiSQ-7Lmokx7P3ZQ0fYgQVyvC-iOVBakhfbzv7KaFhFUeK1WLrXCJ_lp9yLcszn3_WOzryAmhuPGIPual5HOn77Mk/s320/IMG_2818.JPG" width="320" /></a>The Bay of Kotor</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Sus5F3aFOUWjAm6zfuBs625UqcXieD4df_MlMquzdN2UCemgf_9pizIYM47t6NGjjcLcBPIYLBYHRKeVUKwgj9fJG-ixpwcUFKf9DukD3VFAF3wgL0knMGrx74vMvdUQ_-A0pu5oeik/s1600/IMG_2819.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Sus5F3aFOUWjAm6zfuBs625UqcXieD4df_MlMquzdN2UCemgf_9pizIYM47t6NGjjcLcBPIYLBYHRKeVUKwgj9fJG-ixpwcUFKf9DukD3VFAF3wgL0knMGrx74vMvdUQ_-A0pu5oeik/s320/IMG_2819.JPG" width="320" /></a>The Bay of Kotor</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidLcg3NUgZ7agUBaClVQ-pf7UKpy5omkHqhNXEQoq-VSLdhHX3waIalB2qoo-Ip8n0op0KNwlWifJ5DMP8aH9FiE3_X8w1dsBKC5GBe0jA-pjSK_J7DysrEV18bBlSwW_AGqvPLE5jEm8/s1600/IMG_2820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidLcg3NUgZ7agUBaClVQ-pf7UKpy5omkHqhNXEQoq-VSLdhHX3waIalB2qoo-Ip8n0op0KNwlWifJ5DMP8aH9FiE3_X8w1dsBKC5GBe0jA-pjSK_J7DysrEV18bBlSwW_AGqvPLE5jEm8/s320/IMG_2820.JPG" width="320" /></a>Kotor</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAvqUTb-l3zy2i79ISOnHQQf1qihX9AEinW6DiDllF3s1fnep9_UNFddjERXiZxygqCzJiF8sYSl6tifROmzxW6OTQ2iCQgg6RAmnYPQ4ojWXGv6UtQKIv3ztxV-Znol0HfQWCzcuriW8/s1600/IMG_2821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAvqUTb-l3zy2i79ISOnHQQf1qihX9AEinW6DiDllF3s1fnep9_UNFddjERXiZxygqCzJiF8sYSl6tifROmzxW6OTQ2iCQgg6RAmnYPQ4ojWXGv6UtQKIv3ztxV-Znol0HfQWCzcuriW8/s320/IMG_2821.JPG" width="320" /></a>Budva</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7EQaw9BTDLOeXv39ofsMWud01C-uZCP3Pz1pAb9Fc5aYehPDKH3ehlUqDc0fjAT7PsDvY-eZZrnM2O8hsCsrfBsX6izvoaQc5OjoI-7TdiWSuoRAW86pL6lQ6xgNIuOpln1YrzH_8cHw/s1600/IMG_2807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7EQaw9BTDLOeXv39ofsMWud01C-uZCP3Pz1pAb9Fc5aYehPDKH3ehlUqDc0fjAT7PsDvY-eZZrnM2O8hsCsrfBsX6izvoaQc5OjoI-7TdiWSuoRAW86pL6lQ6xgNIuOpln1YrzH_8cHw/s320/IMG_2807.JPG" width="320" /></a>Chilling in Kotor</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjapWoXpXeq76sQBY5R1FidcJvd0dFwSoCzHvlxbn-0cZwjEo5XzZAIlvh0gdMf_QRKSCAUqYFbCQx3a4n_yqHCJfD6YW2oCsZt6NucFOB_cpiUAankiLjGOu23jDhLkVRbsVHqwPO0nck/s1600/IMG_2794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjapWoXpXeq76sQBY5R1FidcJvd0dFwSoCzHvlxbn-0cZwjEo5XzZAIlvh0gdMf_QRKSCAUqYFbCQx3a4n_yqHCJfD6YW2oCsZt6NucFOB_cpiUAankiLjGOu23jDhLkVRbsVHqwPO0nck/s320/IMG_2794.JPG" width="320" /></a>Budva old town</div>
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<span lang="EN">It may have only been a standalone country since 2006, but what
Montenegro lacks in age it more than makes up for in beauty and charm.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="EN">Previously a part of Yugoslavia and then Serbia and Montengro, the small
country of under 650,000 boasts some of the most beautiful coastal towns in all
of the Adriatic Sea area.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="EN">Lonely Planet has recently ranked the fortified town of Kotor as its top
destination to visit in 2016 and it’s easy to see why.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="EN">Kotor is situated in a fjord like bay with the towering limestone cliffs
of Mount </span><span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Lovćen
looming all around, providing a stunning backdrop to be absorbed from the
various settlements dotted along the water’s edge.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The compact old town area
wows visitors with its quaint, cobbled streets, ancient churches and array of
quirky boutiques.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Although Montenegro receives
a far smaller number of visitors than its illustrious neighbour Croatia, the
bargain prices and breath taking scenery make it every bit as appealing.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="EN">We were fortunate enough to join an organised tour and spend a morning
taking in the bay in all its glory.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="EN">We enjoyed a hearty lunch and leisurely stroll around Kotor before
moving onto the slightly more developed and marginally less picturesque Budva.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="EN">Budva’s walled old town is smaller than that of Kotor and its
surroundings are somewhat marred by hotels and development built to cater for
its annual influx of primarily Russian citizens.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="EN">That said, Budva still possesses a charm and visitors are able to bathe
or swim on sandy coastline that backs on to the crumbling old town walls,
allowing for some incredible ocean views.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="EN">The Montenegrin economy may still be finding its feet but its mini
tourism boom bodes well for the future. With thousands of visitors unable to
resist its awe-inspiring scenery and cheap prices, the country should well end
up cropping up on more and more travel itineraries over the next few
years. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-39147129886084353242016-09-19T08:45:00.000-07:002016-09-19T12:50:55.558-07:00Croatia round two - September 2016<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvOmBgGTFWHiiq4YyjzJP8_McXJwu1lDLLHu8C7TPacH2GA7FdsTspCNNzI-pn620OpdqLnrIGJjNOWm9OzKk7MqltKEHJMbK1YtwdDlNFFWpfXe5Xi3qHd-nW851KvZRvIKxMmziuvJE/s1600/IMG_2755.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvOmBgGTFWHiiq4YyjzJP8_McXJwu1lDLLHu8C7TPacH2GA7FdsTspCNNzI-pn620OpdqLnrIGJjNOWm9OzKk7MqltKEHJMbK1YtwdDlNFFWpfXe5Xi3qHd-nW851KvZRvIKxMmziuvJE/s320/IMG_2755.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7zXonGXoCfxzwhYEJiSVBeeAMaWxzakHKgbRYgvY-vpEiD8g4CoE7FRHJU9rd0frIyNLH8fDZdn60nvPSiTl5Y_86OTJH0w9zTL5b-MGJrg7GI5uMu31xNmISuY-NvEtozgxS_8WmtTw/s1600/IMG_2708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7zXonGXoCfxzwhYEJiSVBeeAMaWxzakHKgbRYgvY-vpEiD8g4CoE7FRHJU9rd0frIyNLH8fDZdn60nvPSiTl5Y_86OTJH0w9zTL5b-MGJrg7GI5uMu31xNmISuY-NvEtozgxS_8WmtTw/s320/IMG_2708.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtXANybk6KXc6oKPU-obLbsYf6eCzJjx40xQePWMZb5fwatHxQBsBGwB2eZIEC7Sgfn5HJKDg7a_QsyjtDhIOOctIAsCMAv-fPdyWwSKIg1W4lSbOFGXnIuRD1GJ7yBKH60mA8NxNrUqg/s1600/IMG_2709.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtXANybk6KXc6oKPU-obLbsYf6eCzJjx40xQePWMZb5fwatHxQBsBGwB2eZIEC7Sgfn5HJKDg7a_QsyjtDhIOOctIAsCMAv-fPdyWwSKIg1W4lSbOFGXnIuRD1GJ7yBKH60mA8NxNrUqg/s320/IMG_2709.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA-j9LDEesQqg4KirEfU3gL80UqkduMSCHpEDAj69-8_37ShH7KBYAkfbo6_O71Dl4RDjctWj-fV8ONaJ2DoEAEeM0XciSesPmYezHEhlSeVj5BCbbvsximYO_zXHejkmKW2SpTmOaFRE/s1600/IMG_2710.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA-j9LDEesQqg4KirEfU3gL80UqkduMSCHpEDAj69-8_37ShH7KBYAkfbo6_O71Dl4RDjctWj-fV8ONaJ2DoEAEeM0XciSesPmYezHEhlSeVj5BCbbvsximYO_zXHejkmKW2SpTmOaFRE/s320/IMG_2710.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifmRSNwV8xR53mOvE2TWOxD4M1j9WTG9G34PpJQa82Kv-Z5g2gwD20-AHhg7yhbyeaxdOvRRtGvmCc8qZ5QKqJiDKim80l2qO3GhvVM6wC3Z4j2e7zvQs5g6ok2XtIRx2Km0cQpGxpe-o/s1600/IMG_2711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifmRSNwV8xR53mOvE2TWOxD4M1j9WTG9G34PpJQa82Kv-Z5g2gwD20-AHhg7yhbyeaxdOvRRtGvmCc8qZ5QKqJiDKim80l2qO3GhvVM6wC3Z4j2e7zvQs5g6ok2XtIRx2Km0cQpGxpe-o/s320/IMG_2711.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOJjvREdPhs5R9ILf6TdfqmOaa7sZElhQK07ImLFr-v6GBxQ-MdO6vtUYnJ8qUacHWsCwAn-xTk6NpFLuKlcQSESeBjYtQrZx0PJAEbBN0gB0CTIFM6Zi7Kvnmyi3JnWV8MFjYlR19UA0/s1600/IMG_2712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOJjvREdPhs5R9ILf6TdfqmOaa7sZElhQK07ImLFr-v6GBxQ-MdO6vtUYnJ8qUacHWsCwAn-xTk6NpFLuKlcQSESeBjYtQrZx0PJAEbBN0gB0CTIFM6Zi7Kvnmyi3JnWV8MFjYlR19UA0/s320/IMG_2712.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxMGVgaMCl1JtEJ9KHnpsqQDn1a10vwNOUKTe4VsjRnL7GxF0dgoJ45g_ODRsRtKnrAswJkoiYUriiGHZdU_5tE2CdH281gP-iTAkPkHJaBFB5EyRLDTF3EaMlneSS2zg6A075a7XFV34/s1600/IMG_2824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxMGVgaMCl1JtEJ9KHnpsqQDn1a10vwNOUKTe4VsjRnL7GxF0dgoJ45g_ODRsRtKnrAswJkoiYUriiGHZdU_5tE2CdH281gP-iTAkPkHJaBFB5EyRLDTF3EaMlneSS2zg6A075a7XFV34/s320/IMG_2824.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Twelve months ago I was blown away by the heart shaped
peninsula of Istria in Northern Croatia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Its stunning sunsets and old fishing ports such as Rovinj and
Pula captivated our minds during a weeklong visit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">However, mention Croatia and most people initially think of Dubrovnik
so I thought it only right to go back and see what the fuss is about, and tick
off Bosnia and Montenego whilst there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Dubrovnik is famed for its beautiful terracotta roof dominated
old town, ringed by large stone walls erected for defence purposed in the 16<sup>th</sup>
century. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The city was once an independent republic and was also the
scene of a seven month siege by Serbian forces following the declaration of
Croatian independence in 1991.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It was also the setting for hit TV series Game of Thrones and
welcomes thousands of people each year, making it the most visited place in
Croatia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Unfortunately along with these visitors come the most
expensive prices in the country and borderline unbearable crowds, including
those who disembark from cruise ships moored in the port for the day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I thoroughly enjoyed my two days exploring Dubrovnik and it
is undeniably stunning, complete with a cable car which speedily makes it way
to Mount Srdj</span> dramatically overlooking the city.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">However the sheer volume of visitors and cost of meals in an
otherwise affordable country would controversially lead me to pointing any
would-be visitors north to other parts of Croatia instead. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-16607631103459293572016-09-19T07:54:00.001-07:002017-03-10T07:35:41.578-08:00Bosnia - September 2016<br />
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<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">"There is only one team in Mostar," snapped the previously jovial shop owner when I innocently asked whether or not he also stocked the shirt of the current champions of Bosnia, Zrinjski Mostar. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">I had tried on the strip of former Yugoslav cup winners Velez Mostar who haven't fared at all well since the disintegration of Yugoslavia. Evicted from their stadium which was then given to Zrinjski and now languishing at the foot of the second tier of the Bosnian footballing pyramid. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">While the shop owner's could be interpreted as a fierce kind of loyalty to his team, it also goes to show the divisions that still exist in Bosnian society more than two decades since the end of the most fierce war seen in Europe since the Second World War and one which claimed near to 100,000 lives and displaced millions of others. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Zrinjski are the team of Bosnia's Croat population while Velez represent the country's majority Bosniak (Muslim) population. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">When they meet there are fireworks in the stands, literally, and overt displays of nationalistic pride and passion as well as the frenetic waving of Turkish and Croats flags. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Following the break-up of Yugoslavia, Bosnia's Serb population tried to secure territory for its motherland, a move which was met with resistance by the Bosniaks and Croats who then fell out themselves resulting in a bloody war remembered for ethnic cleansing, mass rape and starvation. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">The war lasted three years and only drew to a close thanks to UN intervention and today, all three populations live alongside and tolerate each other but don't often agree on the best political course of action. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">There are three separate heads of state, one for each slice of the population, and decisions are often made on their behalf from outside the country. It is hoped that EU membership will bring a form of simplicity and stability to Bosnia's governmental hierarchy. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">We arrived in Mostar on a sweltering day (as it so often is we were told), after stopping off at the quaint Turkish town of Pocitelj,</span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"> a small settlement located on a steep hill and dominated by a large Mosque that looks out over the river and settlement below. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Bosnia remains the only country this side of Turkey with a Muslim majority after Ottomans settled the area in the 1460s and is among the poorest in Europe.</span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Today the majority of Mostar's Croat population still lives on the Western side of the city and the Muslim population in the East with Orthodox Serbs sprinkled in on both sides. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">The city, Bosnia's second biggest after the capital Sarajevo is connected by seven bridges including the iconic and grandiose</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> Stari Most bridge, which was completely destroyed and then rebuilt during and following the conflict. </span></span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">The city's compact and cobbled old town, some of its buildings riddled with bullet holes, is a hive of activity with shops and stalls selling everything from Turkish tea pots to fridge magnets. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Restaurants and cafes take advantage of every available viewpoint of the surrounding valley and the winding Neretva River. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Mostar, named after the guards who kept look out on the bridge, is determined not to forget what happened just over 20 years ago and offers a plethora of museums and photographic exhibitions documenting the atrocities. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">The city was the scene of fierce fighting to control its metal industry with 80% of buildings reduced to rubble during the war. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Residents have vowed never again and although they may not always agree with their city neighbours, they live alongside each other and peacefully go about their day to day lives. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">The city is beautiful and its people welcoming and hospitable on all sides of the divide, even if visible scars do still exist as a reminder of the conflict on every street corner. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">The buzz is palpable as you make your way around the city. Bosnia was my 29th country and the most fascinating by far and yes, I bought the Velez Mostar shirt and put a smile back on the shop owner's face. </span><br />
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-6362886241901266392016-06-21T06:15:00.002-07:002016-06-21T07:28:22.639-07:00France and Belgium - June 2016<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
RATED a respectful 8/10 by the highly critical Internet Movie
Database website, the 2008 film In Bruges tells the story of two bumbling hit
men sent to the charming Belgium city to lay low after a
failed hit which inadvertently saw a young child killed.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The hitmen, expertly played by Colin Farrell and Brendan
Gleeson, are polar opposites with Gleeson’s character more interested in
soaking up the picturesque sites of the medieval city, whereas the irritable and
somewhat younger Farrell wants to get out and sample some of the myriad of pubs
and bars which line Bruges’ streets and cellars.<o:p></o:p></div>
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What follows is a catastrophic yet comedic chain of events involving
a tactical suicide from the city’s iconic bell tower, a gun chase through the
streets and canals of the city and an angry, cocaine sniffing dwarf.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Whilst this narrative may have proven difficult to top, my
group of friends and I gave it a good go and produced a considerable series of
mishaps ourselves.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Before we set off the plan had been to pick up our hired
minibus, cross the channel and head to a campsite in the north of France, before
making our way into either Lille or Lens to take in the Euro 2016 battle of
Britain between England and Wales.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We had been vociferously warned to watch out for Russian
hooligans and French ultras who attacked English fans in Marseille days before leading to
running battles in the streets of the multi-cultural melting pot port.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Unfortunately violent supporter groups from the continent
still see English ‘hooligans’ as a considerable force to measure up to given
the trail of destruction they left around Europe in the 70s and 80s, and often
target English fans as a way of proving themselves among the trouble making elite.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Although the vast majority of known English trouble makers
have had their passports confiscated and no longer travel, English fans came under
fire from rival groups and predictably fought back. I am in no way saying that
the battles of Marseille were not at all the fault of the English, I just
believe that if you kick a dog so many times it will eventually bite back and
the English supporters, as rowdy and boisterous as they can be, didn’t go to France
specifically looking for trouble as is the case with some of the Russians involved
in the trouble who arrived equipped with well-organised fight tactics and MMA training.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Also the violence that took place in the Stade Velodrome
highlighted the negligence of the French authorities who failed to prevent
Russian supporters from rushing over women and children in the neutral section
and attacking English supporters.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Anyway, I digress.<o:p></o:p></div>
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As we disembarked the ferry and made our way to our first
campsite, we gawped at the sight of the rolling hills, beautifully constructed
properties and quaint towns of the Northern France countryside. After arriving
at our campsite located in the shadow of a country house, we enjoyed a drink in
the sun and a few games of table tennis with other supporters, both English and
Welsh.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The next day we boarded a train and headed to the student
city of Lille recommended for ticketless fans due to the fact it has more bars
and a bigger fanzone.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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As soon as we exited the station we were greeted by hoards
of English fans gathering outside bars and indulged in some good-natured ritual
chanting and japes to pass the late morning hours.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The game itself was tight with England recording a late win
thanks to a Daniel Sturridge goal, and we left Lille having enjoyed plenty of
friendly banter and no trouble at all, although I do understand some flashpoints did
develop later in the evening. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Ever since watching In Bruges I’ve always wanted to visit
the city and we rolled into town feeling fresh with a sense of anticipation of
what was in store.<o:p></o:p></div>
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As often portrayed, the city that is home to 118,000 people
is full of cobbled streets, horse and carriages, canals, beautiful buildings
and chocolate shops. Another Venice of the North.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The view from the bell tower was also well worth the 10 Euro admissing fee and gruelling 1,000 odd steps we had to climb to take in the panoramic eyeshot it
offered of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. <o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s fair to say the European Championship atmosphere had
spilled over the border and we enjoyed partying with Dutch and Belgium football
fans, singing songs and dancing into the early hours at some of the busier, bustling pubs and bars.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So far, so good, but when in the early hours two of us split from the group and
began to make our own way back to the campsite, things took a turn for the
worse.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We ended up being enticed into what we now know is a
building frequented by squatters and artists. We were invited in as we passed
and after grabbing a drink from a living room bar open for a monthly party, we
were shown into the dark, graffiti ridden tunnels which the squatters call
home.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Foolishly we managed to lose our guides and spent half an
hour desperately trying to find our way out of the darkened tunnels and court
yards, overlooked by a crumbling chapel. A petrifying experience.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Waking up the next morning it became clear that it was not
only our sense of direction we had lost, but also our bag containing the minibus
keys so we sat at our camp, looking at a minibus we couldn’t enter or start plotting
how we were going to escape the predicament we had found ourselves in.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Like something out of The Hangover, the gruelling eight hour
trek across the city, retracing our steps from the night before, was as
enjoyable as it was successful.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We visited two pubs, a late night bar, a kebab shop, a
police station and rang every taxi company in the city, all to no avail.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Despondently we were forced to get the minibus towed into a
compound and find our way home via taxis and public transport, albeit at an extra
cost of only £50 or so.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One member of the group has since picked up the spare keys
and returned to collect the wagon, however some casual internet research today
has revealed the name of the building where the squatters’ party took place as Donkey Squat.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Frustratingly Donkey Squat was one of the places we returned
in search of the bag the next night after receiving directions from people who
were clearly enjoying some form of outer body, hallucinogenic experience. However we found nobody
home other than an angry Irishman who told us in no uncertain terms that our
lost items weren’t there and we were to leave immediately or risk his wrath. It
seems the parties only take place once or twice each month.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A couple of emails to the party organisers later and the bag and keys are being posted
home. The trip may not have involved suicides, dwarves, drugs or guns, but we
certainly enjoyed our fair share of beer, disasters and new friends.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Another country off the list and more tales to pass down to
future generations.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-90930803897809009962016-06-03T08:37:00.002-07:002016-06-03T08:37:20.581-07:00Wembley, 2016.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip17d_H7VR9m_ODU3KK_TOWnAMMm_TmwOL_G_2AcKVdE6BIhV4XFZLpOsHHd1yaBQ7LU8E0K2_ztvM2CN2NsiAJmCH3NTSfGUjOgeiZPScWFfya81eEY0oMZ8bIR1O6kPnuXykivXCZP0/s1600/IMG_2166.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip17d_H7VR9m_ODU3KK_TOWnAMMm_TmwOL_G_2AcKVdE6BIhV4XFZLpOsHHd1yaBQ7LU8E0K2_ztvM2CN2NsiAJmCH3NTSfGUjOgeiZPScWFfya81eEY0oMZ8bIR1O6kPnuXykivXCZP0/s320/IMG_2166.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Not many words on this, but as is often the case with supporting Plymouth Argyle, Monday's trip to Wembley was a fantastic day out once again ruined by the football. </div>
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Pyrotechnics, camaraderie, beer and incessant chanting, it was all going so well until 3 o'clock. </div>
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There's always next year.</div>
<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-57636695868770632222016-06-02T08:52:00.001-07:002016-06-03T08:41:53.356-07:00Mexico, 2016.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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SECRETLY I always turned my nose up at people who elect to go on all-inclusive package holidays, likening them to somewhat of a vacation straightjacket where travellers are tied to the hotel they have often paid through to nose to stay at.</div>
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So naturally, it’s fair to say that my maiden voyage to Mexico wasn’t as first planned. A travel itch had been eating away at me for some time now. The itch was called Mexico.</div>
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I first had a chance to visit the north American country back in autumn 2013 during time spent travelling around the USA. I had pitched up at a fantastic hostel in the southern Californian city of San Diego, which offered day trips once a week to the Mexican border city of Tijuana.</div>
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I had been eagerly anticipating the trip throughout my week spent there, but at the last minute got talked out of it and instead spent an afternoon watching American football, a sport so boring I left at half time and returned to the safety of the pub.</div>
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While I was under no illusions and was fully aware that Tijuana is far from the most Mexican of experiences, after all it is a border town best known for being a key drug route into the US and popular destination for America’s underage drinkers, the fact that I passed up an opportunity to visit a new country really pissed me off (seeing the world is a passion of mine as I'm sure you're aware by now).</div>
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Fast forward two and a bit years of pure annoyance and sense of missed opportunity and I finally made it, albeit to the opposite end of the country.</div>
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As previously touched upon, rather than backpacking or going where the wind took me, I arrived in the Riviera Maya staying in an all-inclusive hotel.</div>
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When I previously thought of all-inclusive trips I associated them with being sat by a pool drinking crap beer for two weeks, rarely venturing away from the comforts of the hotel and generally being a waste of an opportunity to see a new country.</div>
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However, fast forward two weeks and I can confirm that providing you have the desire to get out and about, you can still see a good chunk of area and get back in time for your already paid for dinner.</div>
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Sadly, large swathes of Mexico are poor areas where drugs cartels feud openly in the street as they vie to control the lucrative smuggling routes. However the Mexican government is clearly aware of the beauty, history and culture associated with the Yucatan Peninsula and do their best to keep violent crime away from the area to ensure a steady flow of pesos out of tourist’s pockets and into government coffers.</div>
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The Yucatan Peninsula is known for its Caribbean Ocean beaches and Mayan ruins and from the mushrooming resort of Cancun in the north, to the yoga retreats of Tulum in the south, the area is lined with white sand and turquoise water beaches (think postcard Caribbean) and dotted with fascinating crumbling ruins hinting at the mightiest of civilisations.</div>
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Originating in the Yucatan around 2600 B.C the Mayans rose to prominence around A.D. 250 in present-day southern Mexico, Guatemala, western Honduras, El Salvador, and northern Belize and developed a highly sophisticated society.</div>
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They are known for their ancient writing system as well as art, architecture, calendar and astronomy and many an hour we spent wandering around the most famous of all the ruins, Chichen Itza, and also the cliffstop structures of Tulum, the city first encountered by Spanish colonialists as they arrived.</div>
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Mayan traditions are still prevalent despite the one-time Spanish rule and their short, stocky and extremely friendly people can be seen throughout the region, some still living as their ancestors did before the Spaniards became aware Mexico even existed.</div>
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Following on from a morning spent at Chichen Itza, we took a dip in one of the plethora of cenotes, natural pits or sinkholes, resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes water underneath. Think underwater cave swimming in the dark, which certainly proved as if not more exhilarating than it sounds.</div>
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The cenotes have rightly become attractions in their own right and from there, watered and stuffed with the spicy but tasty traditional local cuisine; we hopped back on board the bus and headed to the city of Valladolid.</div>
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Valladolid was founded by Spanish colonialists and named after the Spanish city of the same name.</div>
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During a fleeting visit I was fortunate enough to stroll around its quaint streets, lined with picturesque coloured buildings and take some time out at its charming square which is overlooked by a church once used to try and convert Mayans to Christianity. The Spanish were shocked to learn that they originally worshipped a serpent and I was astounded to witness the incredibly slow and almost therapeutic pace of life there.</div>
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Visiting the various towns and sights you really get a feel of the area’s history from the ancient Mayan civilisations, through Spanish colonialism, leaving a contemporary hybrid and melting pot of traditions and practices.</div>
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Square miles of sprawling jungle and the world’s second longest coral reef makes the peninsula an adrenaline junky's playground and I was fortunate to get out equipped with my trusty GoPro (which I’ve finally got the hang of) and enjoy some snorkelling, abseiling, zip wiring and speedboating. Sea turtles, dolphins, iguanas and various species of fish and birds were among the wildlife that pitched up during our excursions.</div>
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By the end of the trip I felt as if I had sampled the best that the Yucatan Peninsula and Riviera Maya had to offer, however our final excursion took me to an extremely special place.</div>
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Sian Ka'an is a nature reserve located on a thin strip of land with the Caribbean Ocean lapping it on one side and the most turquoise of lagoons featuring plenty of crocodiles on the other.</div>
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The area is teeming with wildlife and is also home to a group of people whose name escapes me.</div>
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The able watermen and their families live off the sea, capturing lobster and catering for a controlled number of visitors per week and there is just one bumpy road in and out of the civilisation Punta Allen, located an hours’ drive from Tulum.</div>
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The landscape is fit to grace any postcard and the residents there are relaxed, friendly and content despite living the most basic of lives. How I envy them and long to be back there as I sit at my desk this Friday afternoon.</div>
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<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-371142064632367752016-04-19T04:06:00.006-07:002016-04-19T04:09:54.598-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghQaGEVSAOGRHpVwypJF-xLNWjfln2deri_YeStQu8bKj6WFRndPL5a_pBUk9SdnedIOZwErIvzjeM1JUY9g2ztiLzZnpwdwMef88N_JpYJkEEtjeLyaZVHcn_hUGnHS9GrZsLgDv6r5w/s1600/IMG_1789.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghQaGEVSAOGRHpVwypJF-xLNWjfln2deri_YeStQu8bKj6WFRndPL5a_pBUk9SdnedIOZwErIvzjeM1JUY9g2ztiLzZnpwdwMef88N_JpYJkEEtjeLyaZVHcn_hUGnHS9GrZsLgDv6r5w/s320/IMG_1789.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
St Basil's Cathedral, Moscow, Russia.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg302Uc_29qtdXpUo2n-gMDw4xGzdNpt0HI0nAg_vUJ-vBrl3c6_vhu98HbFoMqwPrvISgPeHBRSSkObXR9yqR8jMyu-aiT4ZEpK38KvFaTWLEW3SdLmlxz_5pCxR_zUGXK-OaSJhescaI/s1600/IMG_1787.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg302Uc_29qtdXpUo2n-gMDw4xGzdNpt0HI0nAg_vUJ-vBrl3c6_vhu98HbFoMqwPrvISgPeHBRSSkObXR9yqR8jMyu-aiT4ZEpK38KvFaTWLEW3SdLmlxz_5pCxR_zUGXK-OaSJhescaI/s320/IMG_1787.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
St Basil's Cathedral and Red Square, Moscow, Russia.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-aRERQFsW-Cd0Z40Ai9r3WhupGcHJ9plcpSYiQoLykUPdicQe0T4ezVWH04cVmD5s278dU6od4A2qXu4N9s4rmLegaN8M9Ddl_bRhJZLpc2RYUIBKk8XpvlczUku0TmrEkp0GH3bPIW4/s1600/IMG_1776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-aRERQFsW-Cd0Z40Ai9r3WhupGcHJ9plcpSYiQoLykUPdicQe0T4ezVWH04cVmD5s278dU6od4A2qXu4N9s4rmLegaN8M9Ddl_bRhJZLpc2RYUIBKk8XpvlczUku0TmrEkp0GH3bPIW4/s320/IMG_1776.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The walls of the Kremlin, Moscow, Russia.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNF828pgEQ3TYRbVJcJLee5tfz4lqubJkJe08CVJZgbKVCLRGoo659qY2l0QKb0qiebHn2ApnPn1mPyHarBtT1g-Dz2Hbwv26iBJRMF0S8bNJb4ReI5c2ddTnAjFzOTZ9AMDeVRNgP4NM/s1600/IMG_1751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNF828pgEQ3TYRbVJcJLee5tfz4lqubJkJe08CVJZgbKVCLRGoo659qY2l0QKb0qiebHn2ApnPn1mPyHarBtT1g-Dz2Hbwv26iBJRMF0S8bNJb4ReI5c2ddTnAjFzOTZ9AMDeVRNgP4NM/s320/IMG_1751.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Lokomotiv Moscow ultras.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj618FeCm33wgmVHaPikkV27By38rgfNW-b2c98px50MLqJAsfIVZX6d24NrnQVmX4vD6qod5eOHnQUxvGVelEgU-DCQk6aVk9YOS70X2a0d9LH8sSsAAfdaC-3N1p-EKRvox5P_80bwRM/s1600/IMG_1750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj618FeCm33wgmVHaPikkV27By38rgfNW-b2c98px50MLqJAsfIVZX6d24NrnQVmX4vD6qod5eOHnQUxvGVelEgU-DCQk6aVk9YOS70X2a0d9LH8sSsAAfdaC-3N1p-EKRvox5P_80bwRM/s320/IMG_1750.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
St Basil's Cathedral, Moscow, Russia.<br />
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Riga, Latvia.<br />
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Riga, Latvia.<br />
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Riga, Latvia.<br />
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CSKA Moscow fans getting in the mood.CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-83399206050193416582016-04-19T04:03:00.001-07:002016-04-22T08:40:46.138-07:00Riga, Latvia and Moscow, Russia - April 2016<div class="MsoPlainText">
Judge as you find is a mantra handed down to me by my open
minded mother, a woman who can't help but see the good in the majority of the
people she meets.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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When I announced my intention to travel East to behind what
was formerly the Iron Curtain and into Russia I was greeted with choruses of
"are you mad", "you'll get killed" and "what do you
want to do that for". <o:p></o:p></div>
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Barely a week at home goes by without news beamed across the
BBC network of Russian leader Vladimir Putin either flexing his political
muscles distancing himself further from the west in what is increasingly
becoming a throwback to the Cold War era, a probe into a poisoned spy, or
brutal military intervention in Syria. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I must confess that I did have some reservations (although
not enough to put me off coming) and thought that we would have to watch our
step a little, but in truth what I've discovered during my own personal time
spent in Moscow is that the people living in the city are friendly, warm,
welcoming, helpful and speak surprisingly good English, contrary to my one word
Russian vocabulary of spaseeba. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We warmed up with a day and night in the charming Latvian
city of Riga, a quaint cobbled city typical of so many other smaller Easter
European outposts. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Again, the locals were a friendly bunch and couldn't do
enough for us. Riga itself is relatively small in size (a population of well under a
million and is easy to navigate on foot) its picturesque old town packed with
bars, restaurants, stunning architecture, grand church spires and bustling
market stalls. <o:p></o:p></div>
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However as nice as Riga was, it was far from the main event.
After touching down in Moscow we hopped in a cab and headed past nondescript
Soviet high rise blocks and into what quickly became a smart, clean and awe-inspiring city.
<o:p></o:p></div>
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We wasted no time in hitting the town for a Friday night in a place which is as famous for its nightlife as it is its historic landmarks
marking poignant moments in Russian history and boy, did it not disappoint. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Our destination of choice for an unexpected two night stay
was a nightclub named Gipsy. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Gipsy, as is the case with many Russian clubs, exercises a
strict face control policy whereby only people deemed good looking or rich
enough are allowed to enter. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Fortunately for us, our English accent was detected in the
sizeable queue which had already seen people turned away who would probably
considered in the more attractive proportion of the population back in the UK. <o:p></o:p></div>
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After a quick pat down we were allowed to enter what turned
out to be an absolute assault on the senses. Two large rooms made up the vast
majority of the complex which was packed with Russia's glamorous, wealthy and
powerful clad in some of the swankiest get up I've ever seen. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Face control ensured the club was never over crowded as the
DJs spun their tunes until the time that my alarm would usually sound for work.
A combination of adrenaline, vodka and red bull and knowing the fact that we'd
blagged our way into a club that never in our wildest dreams would we be able
to enter back home, ensured we were among the last to leave two nights in
succession. <o:p></o:p></div>
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A walk around Gipsy sees an impressive plethora of services including a tapas bar, restaurant, ball pool and
even a kebab shop to combat late night/ early morning cravings.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The two indescribable vodka-fuelled nights proved to not be
enough to spoil our days however and we also wolfed down some tasty culinary
treats provided by the courteous, polite and attentive waiting staff, to help power us through our sightseeing itinerary. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Moscow itself is so clean that it almost glistened in the April
warmth which ensured chills the icy that we'd been told to expect would never trouble
us during our stay. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The sights need little introduction or description but must be seen to be
believed. The Kremlin, St Basil's Cathedral and Red Square are all rightly marvelled at
by all those who stop by to snap iconic pics immediately uploaded to social
media (guilty). <o:p></o:p></div>
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The buildings provide a reminder as to the world superpower
that Russia has proved to be throughout history. Nearby hawkers pedal fluffy hats, as well as t-shirts and fridge magnets depicting comical images such as Putin riding a bear holding a
shotgun, a gentle reminder of the god-like worship and cult of personality that
surrounds the leader. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Being lucky enough to take in a top flight football match
and potential title decider between CSKA and Lokomotiv Moscow was an experience
that I will never forget and one that trumped matches I've seen across England and Spain. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The game itself was an end to end 1-1 draw which featured no
shortage of goal mouth action and drama. <o:p></o:p></div>
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However, despite the entertainment on the field played out
by 22 gladiators from around the world, it was the fans off it and particular
the ultras that stole the show. <o:p></o:p></div>
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A non-stop 90 minute barrage of ear shredding noise from
both sets of fans included flares, fireworks and curiously mosh pits, with no
sign of any hooliganism, perhaps to do with the fact half the Russian army
looked to have been deployed to maintain order. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Comparing Moscow to other parts of the geographically largest country in
the world would be unfair and unrealistic as poverty and famine still hold a
vice like grip in some of the more isolated rural areas, whilst Moscovites live
lives of flash cars and Louis Vutton bags. However, even as Ferraris zip around the wide
boulevards, the recent crash of the rouble still means that drinks are cheap
and a slap-up meal totals around £10 a head.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Speaking from my own experience I can say that
Moscow was undoubtedly worth the considerable hassle of organising a visa and
my only regret is not being able to travel further and deeper into a
fascinating country which has now captured not only my imagination but also my
heart. <o:p></o:p></div>
CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-40972397793319420892015-10-20T11:58:00.000-07:002015-10-20T12:01:38.952-07:00Porto, October 2015<div class="MsoNormal">
Elegantly straddling the meandering estuary of the River Douro, picture perfect Porto deserves to be known as more than just a haven for wine connoisseurs.</div>
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While Portugal’s second city is globally famous for the packing, transporting and exporting of port wine, the city also offers stunning views and locals have a refreshingly slow pace of life.</div>
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Despite having to get up in the dead of night (1:15am to be exact) to begin our journey from deepest darkest Cornwall, it’s easy to see why Porto is becoming one of Europe’s trendiest weekend getaways.</div>
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Less than a two hour flight from Bristol Airport and we were greeted by blue skies and balmy October temperatures. Porto Airport is connected to the city via the efficient and extensive Metro system, meaning that you are in the thick of it within an hour and all for less than three euros.</div>
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Defying our distinct lack of sleep, we checked in at the centrally located Hotel Aliados which stands aside the vast avenue of the same name, chucked in our bags and immediately set about seeing what the city had to offer.</div>
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As always, we purchased a ticket from one of the city’s three open top bus tours and were ferried around for the afternoon, quickly getting our bearings and establishing points of interest to which we wished to return.</div>
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Port caves and factories aside, Porto’s showpiece is undoubtedly the spectacular views from the numerous giant bridges connecting both sides of the River Douro.</div>
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The river is lined on the one side with industry related to port production and on the other, unstable but quaint looking terracotta roofs that stack up and back up towards the city centre and its designer shops.</div>
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It’s well worth an afternoon wondering the banks of the Douro and the Ribeira district taking in the charming architecture and sampling some of cuisine at the many family-run restaurants.</div>
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In fact, the city is a fantastic place to keep active, offering long walks to sandy beaches and plenty of parks, botanical gardens and panoramic viewing spots to marvel at its splendour.</div>
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Porto also has a trendy bar scene, but one that rarely gets going until late, by which time we were often in bed due to our hectic daytime sightseeing schedule.</div>
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Although I wasn’t taken by the signature dish the franceschina (meats and bread with melted cheese spoilt by a strange beer sauce), we did manage to locate a small and cheap kitchen serving up the finest chicken and chips that have ever graced my pallet, a dish that trumped the global dining phenomenon Nando’s.</div>
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Also worth a mention is the Café Majestic, the spot JK Rowling penned her Harry Potter novels whilst living in the city, a hive of activity that offers splendid interior design and tasty milkshakes.</div>
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On the outskirts of the city is the relatively new sporting arena the Estadio Dragao, the home of Portuguese football powerhouse FC Porto built for Euro 2004.</div>
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Although neither FC Porto nor the city’s other team Boavista were at home, we managed to look around both stadiums and were taken aback by the grandeur of the Dragao and its magnificent museum which proudly shows off a glittering history complete with hatful’s of league titles and two Champions League winners trophies.</div>
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So within a short, inexpensive Easyjet guided hop and easily explorable by foot in just a few days, I’d be surprised if more people don’t start lining the banks of the River Douro to marvel at Porto’s breathtaking natural beauty and soak in its port-fuelled charm.</div>
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CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-21183080738463185952015-10-20T11:25:00.000-07:002015-10-20T11:25:06.485-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-27122096905063629452015-09-16T08:45:00.002-07:002015-10-20T11:59:07.908-07:00Croatia and Slovenia, September 2015<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">WHILE the UNESCO heritage site of
Dubrovnik may be the image that graces the covers of Croatian guide books, a
trip to the northern peninsula of Istria offers a dream break for sightseers,
foodies, wine tasters and outdoor enthusiasts.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">I picked Istria as our
destination for a September getaway solely because the flight times suited our
needs - what a successful gamble it proved to be.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">After the long and laborious
journey to Stansted via a Plymouth Argyle away defeat in Stevenage, we
struggled our way through the airport’s frankly shockingly inept passport and
security control to finally board our flight.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Based a five minute bus ride
outside the working port of Pula, our hotel (Splendid Resort) though basic,
offered stunning views of the Adriatic, good transport links and spacious
rooms.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Temperatures around the mid-20s
kept us sunned throughout the week as we made our way around the rugged,
spectacular peninsula.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Pula itself, though a busy dock,
offers quaint cobbled streets, a constant buzz of activity and a glorious old
Roman amphitheatre that once welcomed crowds of up to 40,000 people.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">From Pula (where we ate well each
evening) we daytripped to the Brijuni Islands, the former playground of
Yugoslav leader Tito.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">The islands were green and unspoilt,
but the majority of tours do not let you off to explore them. Unfortunately I
paid for a tour that didn’t stop so can only advise that others do their
homework first.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">After a hearty meal of pork chops
and cabbage on board we disembarked at a beach packed with German
holidaymakers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Although the beach was
unremarkable and pebbled (as the majority of Croatian beaches are), we took the
short walk into the coastal town/village (it’s not very big) of Fazana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Fazana is a picturesque harbour
worthy of gracing any postcard, with a church spire towering over the coloured
roofs that look out onto the rows and rows of boats.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">The following day we made our way
to the active fishing port of Rovinj, which for me, was one of the most
stunning towns I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Fishermen in Rovinj still haul
their catch in each morning from the harbour there after saying their prayers
at </span><span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Saint Euphemia's basilica</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">, an ancient
church that stands proudly over the town.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Rovinj is inevitably packed with restaurants and sightseers,
but also with beautiful and charming buildings in equal measure which give the
town a unique vibe. The town’s landscape cuts out into the Adriatic and the
wooded area to the south contains great views and hidden beaches and is well
worth a cycle around.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Other day trips included a trip to the cape of Premantura’s
Kamenjak national park which is most scenic and offers fantastic watersport and
cycling opportunities.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Around an hour’s drive away (I paid for a taxi as I’m too
much of a wimp to hire a car overseas) is the Slovenian border.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Five minutes the other side of the passport control are the
towns of Portoroz and Piran.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Portoroz mainly consists of expensive hotels and casinos to
cater for the hordes of affluent Italian visitors, but Piran really is another
jewel of the Istrian peninsula.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Again, a curious egg shaped piece of land that sticks out to
sea, the streets are cobbled, compact and overflowing with character and little
galleries and shops. Orange roofs illuminate the town’s skyline.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">One of Slovenia’s few coastal resorts (Italy lays only a
short drive the other side), Piran is well worth a trip for anyone staying in
Istria. Although it might not represent a true snapshot of Slovenian life with
the rest of the country lying inland, it isn’t hard to see why so many people
take time to wander around its streets.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">In a nutshell, Istria is laidback and an area of outstanding
beauty with plentiful outdoor pursuits and culinary delights on offer.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">A week flew by and left me with a desire to return to Croatia
and hopefully explore some of the inland towns that I was unable to find time to visit.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">The food is cheap and Istrian menu is predominantly a mixture
of Italian cuisine and seafood. Although I wasn’t a fan of their speciality
truffles, a special shout must go to one of the restaurants along Pula’s main
drag that served me up possibly the best steak I’ve ever had complete with
garlic butter. Unfortunately its name escapes me so you’ll have to go and
search it out yourself.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-79403006469408995722015-09-15T09:01:00.001-07:002015-09-15T09:01:46.480-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Fazana, Croatia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5Rz7IbfjJ6LRucmF6dxLtazTpvYrUkEioBIBAMSO3l8opAteq99ih66Ov9vATpPt0zHQG9y_oVejQaOJGKmIv5K_3Dyi9lApkHtp3RCY8H8_doZFliSeAg8njCHBRtDkm5-PaMKJWno/s1600/IMG_0270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5Rz7IbfjJ6LRucmF6dxLtazTpvYrUkEioBIBAMSO3l8opAteq99ih66Ov9vATpPt0zHQG9y_oVejQaOJGKmIv5K_3Dyi9lApkHtp3RCY8H8_doZFliSeAg8njCHBRtDkm5-PaMKJWno/s320/IMG_0270.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Fazana, Croatia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHT7fbHq8b1BkML6GHzo70SIbJEl15KpYbPoT10CjmfgIk5Nc9IhnrfO-g73wTfyL2-x62m-gzFhH1Fv7JgKwuCycz4J_3tlfHbvimrNsB4jLNSzqqw4R4EftZShDiwM1Gxwh6f-Yffc/s1600/IMG_0277.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHT7fbHq8b1BkML6GHzo70SIbJEl15KpYbPoT10CjmfgIk5Nc9IhnrfO-g73wTfyL2-x62m-gzFhH1Fv7JgKwuCycz4J_3tlfHbvimrNsB4jLNSzqqw4R4EftZShDiwM1Gxwh6f-Yffc/s320/IMG_0277.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sunset, Verudela, Croatia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7JG6nwCnnicNPuuEnCesR0buDSLTWu_qmGyN8X1CZk7tCxKTjvZ2kSMJw8Z1-1SxMmctfT_anAh7jND1kA2IsqQLqlzLtLEwGCEew0e_ghgrOciwKG-AfYflM0Gw8ecp-L_JC0pTymbI/s1600/IMG_0287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7JG6nwCnnicNPuuEnCesR0buDSLTWu_qmGyN8X1CZk7tCxKTjvZ2kSMJw8Z1-1SxMmctfT_anAh7jND1kA2IsqQLqlzLtLEwGCEew0e_ghgrOciwKG-AfYflM0Gw8ecp-L_JC0pTymbI/s320/IMG_0287.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Rovinj, Croatia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqBrlenggbeB9EJ4R0JlyTxDxrq3cjVdtywnIK3x_YYbWJ8pCxaSTCrgsWO3bK5-Ar0nUUsazbC3Nzi0QVvHkNjMwAjE4Smk0kj0DQtbczpmkLOq5dWPSgNR_OhjdQgXt96uTtvDWQ5bY/s1600/IMG_0321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqBrlenggbeB9EJ4R0JlyTxDxrq3cjVdtywnIK3x_YYbWJ8pCxaSTCrgsWO3bK5-Ar0nUUsazbC3Nzi0QVvHkNjMwAjE4Smk0kj0DQtbczpmkLOq5dWPSgNR_OhjdQgXt96uTtvDWQ5bY/s320/IMG_0321.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Pula by night, Croatia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMeKs2gcQH7WwFImZarokHoUaYGpWI1XmX9QyeZGKqsk20lg13LLDJcpGrhJ2dHLTy5WPw9JLwRUX-J0JczvWImf1BrKtD2RNL4eBv05SW032FoGOiSm2PjZLHlDpU4jVSWiwYih9wCY/s1600/IMG_0352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMeKs2gcQH7WwFImZarokHoUaYGpWI1XmX9QyeZGKqsk20lg13LLDJcpGrhJ2dHLTy5WPw9JLwRUX-J0JczvWImf1BrKtD2RNL4eBv05SW032FoGOiSm2PjZLHlDpU4jVSWiwYih9wCY/s320/IMG_0352.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Rovinj, Croatia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIlv4iAj3BvrfbWADu9LvIsPL8Kqhnjp0cGh6SCB976shyFx4FrL01_bc1jl9XCzOxol_XR-2MBGyb4vQR7l5fBklPGoLie7mpqkkxpThZd1GrWVIThp9UmE9TOSDPEqx1ZGTUSq9Uar8/s1600/IMG_0353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIlv4iAj3BvrfbWADu9LvIsPL8Kqhnjp0cGh6SCB976shyFx4FrL01_bc1jl9XCzOxol_XR-2MBGyb4vQR7l5fBklPGoLie7mpqkkxpThZd1GrWVIThp9UmE9TOSDPEqx1ZGTUSq9Uar8/s320/IMG_0353.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Fazana, Croatia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRJc9YtG5AAIIYl0u91sUY1e2oNnxxMzrWF8bp5m80ATQiDEfcHizYGp23-aXmtumgUuyIm3JtB_7fkGx_NUCF3VSrKSL81T35TnZ9ejftikVyYnYazjSIXB4-3t24wY3A7eQXE4r-h7M/s1600/IMG_0354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRJc9YtG5AAIIYl0u91sUY1e2oNnxxMzrWF8bp5m80ATQiDEfcHizYGp23-aXmtumgUuyIm3JtB_7fkGx_NUCF3VSrKSL81T35TnZ9ejftikVyYnYazjSIXB4-3t24wY3A7eQXE4r-h7M/s320/IMG_0354.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Pula by night, Croatia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigVL3siyoMOj5MWKj6nDTIjVLtLBS7lkMW4lyw5HFHyml6uRagUisSuUBIgP3zkAzpwWaqJ7M5RHDhMqWgpuvlbXCo1awYqb9igZwc72M3AWyMJGloXbDlqsUDyrR8WuAbMDlV_hcanwo/s1600/IMG_0358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigVL3siyoMOj5MWKj6nDTIjVLtLBS7lkMW4lyw5HFHyml6uRagUisSuUBIgP3zkAzpwWaqJ7M5RHDhMqWgpuvlbXCo1awYqb9igZwc72M3AWyMJGloXbDlqsUDyrR8WuAbMDlV_hcanwo/s320/IMG_0358.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Piran, Slovenia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqT_Rznhr_wfV7iDhERSiAuYBG6q76rMfmc4oZE1tq65gRHkEN3JBDhyphenhyphenBK2OAhbzXgm7Rt3fSgqNfnOWxts1nwhnPlwsYYZf1GTFF_r0L2RqoDB-x1u0vpPPoL7iK5KGezLctxFW7f-Bk/s1600/IMG_0367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqT_Rznhr_wfV7iDhERSiAuYBG6q76rMfmc4oZE1tq65gRHkEN3JBDhyphenhyphenBK2OAhbzXgm7Rt3fSgqNfnOWxts1nwhnPlwsYYZf1GTFF_r0L2RqoDB-x1u0vpPPoL7iK5KGezLctxFW7f-Bk/s320/IMG_0367.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Piran, Slovenia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu6nO2unL64x62yHUWRe_IOySgcGfZfkZOV6_tRl3c2VelqEBKved4iwY3rNJlvkU63tLqk2wjKtDF-997WwkXv468Q8aQWh4PsljTr9aWkx9MJJHPIXo6uf_-flfGluFGtmdH7je58AY/s1600/IMG_0378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu6nO2unL64x62yHUWRe_IOySgcGfZfkZOV6_tRl3c2VelqEBKved4iwY3rNJlvkU63tLqk2wjKtDF-997WwkXv468Q8aQWh4PsljTr9aWkx9MJJHPIXo6uf_-flfGluFGtmdH7je58AY/s320/IMG_0378.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Piran, Slovenia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ5qKUB7ucqMCJfDNSeRHDZOP3uxW873DV4uD22I0mK8i6EF1yVkoSFS5jrNTYoeObYa30X7DBEd50pJTQ1DqmrW37fahcfMgpIcyQU2okqluCpq5Bu2cdm2HVDu_fsZPfMMT2sKVqm0Y/s1600/IMG_0381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ5qKUB7ucqMCJfDNSeRHDZOP3uxW873DV4uD22I0mK8i6EF1yVkoSFS5jrNTYoeObYa30X7DBEd50pJTQ1DqmrW37fahcfMgpIcyQU2okqluCpq5Bu2cdm2HVDu_fsZPfMMT2sKVqm0Y/s320/IMG_0381.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Pula, Croatia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtMGjdMBgsB2bfSMeDNWjxgYmtLU7EFkfDTngjLc0zFWKrGXTFhEzsVxSG4b_i9o0mtr2ZBfrTzBIshthmggsV6gcBUiXJFyQOgzGE6Z0gV94SQo2oC4gd7RdkoD3hyphenhyphen61MyZUHvPNjM9M/s1600/IMG_0386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtMGjdMBgsB2bfSMeDNWjxgYmtLU7EFkfDTngjLc0zFWKrGXTFhEzsVxSG4b_i9o0mtr2ZBfrTzBIshthmggsV6gcBUiXJFyQOgzGE6Z0gV94SQo2oC4gd7RdkoD3hyphenhyphen61MyZUHvPNjM9M/s320/IMG_0386.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Pula, Croatia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXXcKfRaiIUz7yEc4Ied666Z-OZiy1dePNAO821Zhru9oa5XkeLqsP285RyjIizh0uLb_Y5AM6kq6F_5giOC7T_URpYdyIfHI8SmgEC4EYsz5lEw2ooJ9SGUwpOBkLvNLWgAubnoxWnEw/s1600/IMG_0390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXXcKfRaiIUz7yEc4Ied666Z-OZiy1dePNAO821Zhru9oa5XkeLqsP285RyjIizh0uLb_Y5AM6kq6F_5giOC7T_URpYdyIfHI8SmgEC4EYsz5lEw2ooJ9SGUwpOBkLvNLWgAubnoxWnEw/s320/IMG_0390.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-3970126429818336372015-07-01T06:57:00.000-07:002015-07-01T06:57:01.162-07:00Dublin - City Guide<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
WITH friendly locals and a
compact city centre it is easy to see just why Dublin has become such a
desirable weekend break destination for Brits.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
With bubbling enthusiasm my girlfriend
and I rose at the crack of dawn for what was our first overseas trip together
and we were soon in the car on our way to Exeter Airport.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Within hours we had landed, found
our way out of the airport and boarded a bus in the general direction of the
city centre, hastily disembarking when the driver announced the name of Parnell
Square.<o:p></o:p></div>
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“One moment sir, I’ll just check
for you,” said a friendly convenience store cashier as he halted a queue of people
picking up their groceries to respond to my request for directions. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Despite the frustration of the
local shoppers, he consulted Google Maps on his iPhone and sent me off up the
road to the doorstep of our hotel.<o:p></o:p></div>
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As it was too early to check in,
we threw our bags behind the front desk and immediately went out and purchased
tickets for one of the city’s sightseeing tours.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I often hear people say that the
buses are tourist gimmicks, but in my experience they allow for you to suss out
the city and pinpoint landmarks that you wish to visit for a relatively
reasonable price (19euros for 24 hours).<o:p></o:p></div>
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As the bus made its way down the
shopping haven of O’Connell Street we passed a remarkably large pointed
building, one which although I cannot remember how or why it was constructed,
was an awe-inspiring sight.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWltdphZTO3hH2BzBGbhYNSQUSva22idw1FBhrF8hD9a8_ggifaAYkSFPWoABbGdBg86EVFPbtvnPsamI3obhgo83d73c7Nz7YZ_9slrcxWTMa9WzU8wf1eIL0kcPnYRthnO9Bc49ZFA4/s1600/IMG_0985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWltdphZTO3hH2BzBGbhYNSQUSva22idw1FBhrF8hD9a8_ggifaAYkSFPWoABbGdBg86EVFPbtvnPsamI3obhgo83d73c7Nz7YZ_9slrcxWTMa9WzU8wf1eIL0kcPnYRthnO9Bc49ZFA4/s320/IMG_0985.JPG" width="320" /></a>On the other side of the street
our pre-recorded tour guide pointed out the General Post Office, a building still
scarred with bullet holes from the 1916 uprising.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The General Post Office is one of
the many buildings in the city that feature prominently in tales of the Irish
struggle under British rule prior to nation’s independence.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Geographically Dublin is compact, easy to navigate once you get a general
idea of how it is laid out. The cityfolk welcome you to their city with open
arms and are fiercely proud of where they are from.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We checked out the former houses of Oscar Wilde and Jonathan Swift
before arriving at Kilmainham Gaol. For just four euros we were treated to a
guided tour, the knowledgeable guide telling us all about how the prison housed
a number of key figures in the various Irish uprising and at one point was
bursting at the scenes holding five times its official capacity of prisoners,
all forced to live in terrible conditions.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The gaol is one of a score of landmarks worth visiting by day. Along
with the impressive and historic Trinity College and St Paul’s Cathedral, there
are lists of attractions all within walking distance either side of the River Liffey
that divides the city.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
In terms of evening outings, much of the city’s vibrant nightlife is
centred in the bustling Temple Bar area.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCPXF9sSWj2eCHhixLyfzlg8uWz4lk4GH5zFp6JqBnrzHlPOmO36uEjovsEEyZIplKbOIHeYq350QNgU8QqM7cajopxFcd_WitJ9XXoxsS3nf6bF7vHP_kjCGUnGkHYAWU3S7ZM56drUI/s1600/IMG_1017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCPXF9sSWj2eCHhixLyfzlg8uWz4lk4GH5zFp6JqBnrzHlPOmO36uEjovsEEyZIplKbOIHeYq350QNgU8QqM7cajopxFcd_WitJ9XXoxsS3nf6bF7vHP_kjCGUnGkHYAWU3S7ZM56drUI/s320/IMG_1017.JPG" width="320" /></a><o:p> </o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Temple Bar consists of a plethora of restaurants and bars where locals
and tourists rub shoulders as they sink pints of Guinness to the tune of
traditional Irish songs.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Despite a high presence of British stag and hen dos, the city has
managed to retain its character and avoids that knife-edge night-time
atmopshere associated with the likes of Benidorm, Malia and Magaluf.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
In three days in the Irish capital I never once felt threatened and this
despite inadvertently stumbling into a colourful protest by angry protestors
against the water rates.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The restaurant and bar staff was all cheerful and welcoming, presumably
because they get to live in such a beautiful and charismatic city.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Although a pint will set you back
around five euros, I found the city reasonably priced and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend
it to couples, families or groups of lads looking for a good piss up.</div>
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<o:p></o:p>CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-3214778057369263262015-03-19T06:39:00.001-07:002015-03-19T06:43:27.765-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8695490532640743733.post-29612072461651162842015-03-10T09:29:00.004-07:002015-03-10T09:29:53.309-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLPrtwdQOT3d9MxacDIJRtw02YoZUb_eMATKrroXs8rcuu2OiRuh3wW0Cixvj86LIIr-va8LTNAjvx19tFKVLEC1G6kMbab1RcGWBjEIY3cVOO0jwXHSK_lndfrdyhkGkek9CnoxfivM/s1600/IMG_0608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLPrtwdQOT3d9MxacDIJRtw02YoZUb_eMATKrroXs8rcuu2OiRuh3wW0Cixvj86LIIr-va8LTNAjvx19tFKVLEC1G6kMbab1RcGWBjEIY3cVOO0jwXHSK_lndfrdyhkGkek9CnoxfivM/s1600/IMG_0608.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a>Sunset Sihanoukville</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSATIFnpsmXAhizXQ7pcXOTZ_LIiB9Kdc22F3rmKpQ0PwehghJGH4w4E-dJqonzlp6HK-dgyvspJX02kGe6MzxVyJ_aJrqUkx30pVjOVIbWyMzb-NnF7cGvIWTz0Rjl9HcFVnOWtSRvvw/s1600/IMG_0638.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSATIFnpsmXAhizXQ7pcXOTZ_LIiB9Kdc22F3rmKpQ0PwehghJGH4w4E-dJqonzlp6HK-dgyvspJX02kGe6MzxVyJ_aJrqUkx30pVjOVIbWyMzb-NnF7cGvIWTz0Rjl9HcFVnOWtSRvvw/s1600/IMG_0638.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a>The gateway to Amkar Thom</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGUL5EtAMRkr-EFi0zX5gErpl7BPdNhyphenhyphenNVwqtZz5k49LqqO36mbv6o7dKsE1ZsyxQ74HH_zTwi8Dc7EDw8hHVhDdZs5iu2-3ryYqu4HreksljDoUWBYmButAPFAq35VXGHhfb3pHefmLM/s1600/IMG_0639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGUL5EtAMRkr-EFi0zX5gErpl7BPdNhyphenhyphenNVwqtZz5k49LqqO36mbv6o7dKsE1ZsyxQ74HH_zTwi8Dc7EDw8hHVhDdZs5iu2-3ryYqu4HreksljDoUWBYmButAPFAq35VXGHhfb3pHefmLM/s1600/IMG_0639.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a>Fun in the sea, Sihanoukville</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2UDeFhexFFVjymZNDM6hCgMkoqknWuMeqygaZ71SdjCEXWm6-wcLYw4pq_fM2OIE3ls4KslXquKzCDpoIU0Ffd1ERo-ze2lYAxt6BdDpSSrEuax_qHhQSsglokrLKsHMJ0GYplmEUQbY/s1600/IMG_0656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2UDeFhexFFVjymZNDM6hCgMkoqknWuMeqygaZ71SdjCEXWm6-wcLYw4pq_fM2OIE3ls4KslXquKzCDpoIU0Ffd1ERo-ze2lYAxt6BdDpSSrEuax_qHhQSsglokrLKsHMJ0GYplmEUQbY/s1600/IMG_0656.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a>The boys enjoying pub street.</div>
<br />CDMatthewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14014047890035180427noreply@blogger.com0