Tuesday 9 November 2010

Krakow

As our train bounded along its ten hour journey from Berlin’s impressively structured Hauptbahnhof station towards Krakow, the contrasts between Germany and Poland become evident soon after crossing the border.

The run down estates and derelict buildings that bare testimony to Poland’s tragic past appear as a scar upon the landscape as the train motors through. Poland has a chequered past and has suffered greatly at the hands of the invading Nazi’s and then Communist rule, leaving a legacy of mass unemployment and a devastated economy. Although the country has recovered remarkably, it does still seem to be somewhat behind neighbouring Germany.

As we approach Krakow, the urban landscape becomes more visually pleasant as Southern Poland didn’t suffer the same destruction witnessed by much of the rest of the country during the Second World War, making Krakow comfortably the country’s most beautiful city.

A rare wind swept through Krakow during our stay, yet the overall temperature was warmer than Berlin, presumably attributed to the cities more Southern location.

After politely declining the offer of a guided tour we decided to visit the cities attraction by foot, saving around 100 Polish Zloty in the process.

This proved an inspired decision and powered by some tasty takeaway noodles we visited Florian’s Gate, The Barbican, Market Square and the castle of Wavel Hill.

The castle proved a particularly fun attraction as dressed up characters and traditional folk musicians lined the ascent to the castle.

Krakow’s stunning architecture and natural beauty was enhanced further by the beautiful Autumn leaves which lined the cities parkways and cobbled streets.

Natural beauty and stunning architecture aside the city comes alive at night as numerous bars cater for Europe’s booze tourists at relatively ‘Eastern’ prices. Unfortunately for us our budget prevented us from indulging in night time entertainment, not that the liver minded! Instead we wandered the streets by evening taking photographs of the beautifully illuminated landmarks.

On our second day we took the pilgrimage to the ancient Jewish district of Kaciemierz (spelling?). A once thriving Jewish town, the barren and quiet streets featuring the occasional synagogue that help remind of a persecuted past where many of the former residents were moved to concentration camps by Nazi invaders. Today the Jewish population of the area has dropped to just 200 from over 1,500 a century ago.

As the time came for us to leave Krakow I was left impressed by the beauty of the city of Krakow, and although much of Poland is not quite as aesthetically appealing, I am sure that the developing nation will be a more than capable co-host of the 2012 European football championships.

A special mention must go to Slawek, a highly intelligent and friendly Polish university student with whom we were lucky enough to share a cabin with on the train to Bratislava. I hope his head didn’t hurt too much from the amount of questions we threw at him about life in Poland!

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