What can be said about Paris that hasn’t been said by a thousand different people before? Only that it’s bloody freezing!
Upon arrival in France’s glittering capital we were greeted by an icy chill, one that we thought we had long left behind in cold Zurich.
Despite the freezing cold Paris doesn’t disappoint. Ironically and contrary to popular belief we didn’t actually encounter many rude Parisians.
The journey to Paris certainly wasn’t our smoothest. At the other end in Zurich I was told that our train had maximised its capacity of Interrail pass holders or as the woman at the desk put it, trains that run to Paris strictly number the amount of Interrail pass holders on board to maximise the availability to full fare paying passengers. She also mentioned that the train was unlikely to be full but we couldn’t reserve a seat on it. Our only option was to wait a further two hours in a freezing cold train station. As we were already just under two hours early we had a substantial wait on our hands.
When we finally did arrive in Paris we found the train station patrolled by mean looking riot police complete with enough firearms to start a small war. Hastily we rushed around the corner to the taxi rank ready to be confronted by our next problem.
What we saw next astonished me, a taxi waiting line consisting of approximately 50 people. Normally if there are potentials fares around taxis swarm the rank like bees around a honey pot so I couldn’t understand how, with so much potential revenue, we were stuck in a freezing cold line watching taxis arrive occasionally.
Eventually we did manage to work our way to the front of the line and flag down a taxi. Upon entering the taxi I handed my scruffy looking piece of paper with the name and district of our hotel on. Not appearing to sure the driver set off with no real conviction. A short time later we arrived in the relevant district and then spent a considerable while patrolling the area before we finally did arrive at our hotel to conclude a difficult days travelling.
And now back to our time in Paris. Our rough plan was to visit pretty much the obvious destinations, The Eiffel Tower, Arc De Triomphe, Champ Elysses and La Louvre. Judging by the weather forecast the best day was the Friday so we decided to visit La Louvre on the Thursday as the attractions were in the warm and dry.
As probably the least artistic person around La Louvre was a bit hit and miss for me. At times you cannot help but be dumbfounded by the sheer talent that goes into creating some of the paintings in particular the bigger ones, but at other times I must confess to being a bit lost and like a fish out of water. Although I will probably get lynched for saying this I also think that the Mona Lisa is overrated and there are far better pieces of art in there but then again, what do I know?
That night I decided to take a stroll around the lively bohemian district in which we were staying, Abbesses. Wandering down the road I happened to stumble across a neon lit street advertising various sex shows, sex shops, sex... you get the picture! Right in the middle of it was the world famous Moulin Rouge, however with entrance at 90 Euros there wasn’t much chance of me going in for a look.
Although slightly seedy, the street is more fun than filth, distinguishing it slightly from the red light districts of Amsterdam.
Due to quick travel times on the admirable Paris metro system, we were able to chop and change between lines and partake in a whirlwind tour of the cities sights.
The Champ Elysses and Arc De Triomphe although both remarkable sights, are so overcrowded with observers that it is near on impossible to secure a great photograph. Also the crippling cold meant that we weren’t likely to hang around for long. Next was a trip to the Eiffel Tower, the remarkable structure appears to almost scrape the sky and unfortunately for us the lifts were broken and visitors unable to go up past the second floors.
We saved our money, dodged the hawkers and increasingly fake and annoying beggars and made our way back to Abbesses.
Abbesses itself is a lively district lined with stalls, restaurants and excellent bakeries serving some of the finest sweet pastries that I ever remember having the pleasure to sample.
As we prepare to leave Paris I will conclude by saying that the city does not disappoint. Had we not been unfortunate enough to arrive during a big freeze we would have been able to experience so much more during out stay. As it is we visited some amazing sights and samples life in a diverse, culturally unique city that does not disappoint.
At some point during the next week I will write to ponder all that we have seen and add some pictures, hope you have enjoyed reading, time to go pack!
Friday 26 November 2010
Zurich
Knowing that we were only stopping in Switzerland for a day, I predicted that the country was far more unlikely to make a lasting mark than the countries we had previously visited.
That said as the train rolled through the snow capped Alps it was obvious to note just as to why Switzerland is regarded as one of the world’s most naturally beautiful countries. Unfortunately it has prices to match.
Zurich sits surrounded by mountains, the city itself however is far more low lying than other Swiss cities and has a tranquil river flowing through just as many other destinations that we visited do also.
Switzerland is a melting pot of different cultures. As our train travelled from Italy into the country it was obvious of the Italian influence in the lower regions of the country in terms of buildings and scenery. However, as we arrived in Zurich a German influence (German being the countries primary language) certainly prevailed.
Zurich is a beautiful city reminiscent of Vienna in many ways. Stunning architecture and quaint shops straddle cobbled streets.
Our full day spent in Zurich was one of crammed in sightseeing and eagerness to avoid the bitter cold.
Although the country is breathtakingly beautiful, with two simple pasta meals costing the equivalent of £40 Switzerland should only really be visited briefly unless money is of no object to you!
That said as the train rolled through the snow capped Alps it was obvious to note just as to why Switzerland is regarded as one of the world’s most naturally beautiful countries. Unfortunately it has prices to match.
Zurich sits surrounded by mountains, the city itself however is far more low lying than other Swiss cities and has a tranquil river flowing through just as many other destinations that we visited do also.
Switzerland is a melting pot of different cultures. As our train travelled from Italy into the country it was obvious of the Italian influence in the lower regions of the country in terms of buildings and scenery. However, as we arrived in Zurich a German influence (German being the countries primary language) certainly prevailed.
Zurich is a beautiful city reminiscent of Vienna in many ways. Stunning architecture and quaint shops straddle cobbled streets.
Our full day spent in Zurich was one of crammed in sightseeing and eagerness to avoid the bitter cold.
Although the country is breathtakingly beautiful, with two simple pasta meals costing the equivalent of £40 Switzerland should only really be visited briefly unless money is of no object to you!
Tuesday 23 November 2010
Tuscany (Florence and Pisa)
We had been pre warned to expect some form of precipitation upon arrival in Venice but whereas in fact it remained largely dry. The same fortuitous clear skies were not on hand to greet our arrival in Florence however.
Stepping out of the bustling Santa Maria Novella train station and we were immediately soaked. Not just wet or damp, but thoroughly drenched. We scoured the side streets hoping in vain to discover our hotel before finally stumbling across the building. A 200 metre walk had managed to take half an hour due to the hotel directions confusion between left and right.
Fortunately the skies lifted slightly for our first full day and we managed to remain largely dry. Once again we analysed the map of the cities sites and concluded that they were spread well across the area, on both sides of the river that runs through the centre, so we hopped on a reasonably priced tour bus parked just across from the Santa Maria Novella station. The beauty of these hop on hop off buses are that the ticket remains valid for 48hours, so even once the sights have been visited the tour ticket effectively acts as a public transport pass for the remainder of the allotted time.
Florence is a beautiful looking city that was once the capital city of Italy before being displaced by the current capital Rome. The cities Renaissance architecture and beautiful buildings help to cement the city as one of the world’s most beautiful cities. The River Arno acts as a barrier between the cosmopolitan metropolis around the Duome and city centre, and the greener wealthy suburbs on the other side. Our tour took us up to the Michelangelo statue and from this point we looked out across the most amazing panoramic view across the city, a view that photos struggle to do justice. Orange roofs dominate the skyline.
The following day we took the short hop over to neighbouring Pisa to visit the famous Leaning Tower or Pisa. The streets of Pisa, much like those of Florence, ooze both Italian architecture and stereotypes in general. The shutter windows of the coloured buildings overlook the cobbled street where motorcycles zoom by and street tradesman sell umbrellas and bags amongst other tings.
The tower itself is just as imagined. Flanked by other glorious but straight buildings, the peculiar slant looks like it could tip the remainder of the way at any given second.
Just from strolling the streets of the various Italian cities that we visited, there can be no mistaking where you are. Italy has the most recognisable and iconic streets and the people are just as patriotic and passionate as stereotyped. Italy is a truly unique country with such a strong personal identity that helps make it one of the most famous countries and cultures in the world.
The food it Italy was much as one expects it to be, divine. The carbonara sauce has an authentic taste that cannot be obtained by simply stirring in a packet of pasta sauce as I so frequently do at home. The carbonara here is a complete different kettle of fish with egg far more prevalent in the flavour of the sauce.
The subject of food here brings me onto my next rant, tipping and service charges.
Much like one of the characters from the film Reservoir Dogs I disagree with tipping and service charges. They should not be expected by the staff, let alone compulsory and only given when deserved. A meal we had in Venice was followed by a compulsory service and cover charge (another piss take I’d happily eat off the floor) when the service was actually quite poor. All restaurant staff are paid above the minimum wage, more so than can be said for many other jobs where tipping doesn’t even enter the equation. Finally on our final night in Florence I happily tipped at a Chinese restaurant where the service was excellent, just for the record!
Stepping out of the bustling Santa Maria Novella train station and we were immediately soaked. Not just wet or damp, but thoroughly drenched. We scoured the side streets hoping in vain to discover our hotel before finally stumbling across the building. A 200 metre walk had managed to take half an hour due to the hotel directions confusion between left and right.
Fortunately the skies lifted slightly for our first full day and we managed to remain largely dry. Once again we analysed the map of the cities sites and concluded that they were spread well across the area, on both sides of the river that runs through the centre, so we hopped on a reasonably priced tour bus parked just across from the Santa Maria Novella station. The beauty of these hop on hop off buses are that the ticket remains valid for 48hours, so even once the sights have been visited the tour ticket effectively acts as a public transport pass for the remainder of the allotted time.
Florence is a beautiful looking city that was once the capital city of Italy before being displaced by the current capital Rome. The cities Renaissance architecture and beautiful buildings help to cement the city as one of the world’s most beautiful cities. The River Arno acts as a barrier between the cosmopolitan metropolis around the Duome and city centre, and the greener wealthy suburbs on the other side. Our tour took us up to the Michelangelo statue and from this point we looked out across the most amazing panoramic view across the city, a view that photos struggle to do justice. Orange roofs dominate the skyline.
The following day we took the short hop over to neighbouring Pisa to visit the famous Leaning Tower or Pisa. The streets of Pisa, much like those of Florence, ooze both Italian architecture and stereotypes in general. The shutter windows of the coloured buildings overlook the cobbled street where motorcycles zoom by and street tradesman sell umbrellas and bags amongst other tings.
The tower itself is just as imagined. Flanked by other glorious but straight buildings, the peculiar slant looks like it could tip the remainder of the way at any given second.
Just from strolling the streets of the various Italian cities that we visited, there can be no mistaking where you are. Italy has the most recognisable and iconic streets and the people are just as patriotic and passionate as stereotyped. Italy is a truly unique country with such a strong personal identity that helps make it one of the most famous countries and cultures in the world.
The food it Italy was much as one expects it to be, divine. The carbonara sauce has an authentic taste that cannot be obtained by simply stirring in a packet of pasta sauce as I so frequently do at home. The carbonara here is a complete different kettle of fish with egg far more prevalent in the flavour of the sauce.
The subject of food here brings me onto my next rant, tipping and service charges.
Much like one of the characters from the film Reservoir Dogs I disagree with tipping and service charges. They should not be expected by the staff, let alone compulsory and only given when deserved. A meal we had in Venice was followed by a compulsory service and cover charge (another piss take I’d happily eat off the floor) when the service was actually quite poor. All restaurant staff are paid above the minimum wage, more so than can be said for many other jobs where tipping doesn’t even enter the equation. Finally on our final night in Florence I happily tipped at a Chinese restaurant where the service was excellent, just for the record!
Thursday 18 November 2010
Venice
Although Venice is undoubtedly one of Europe’s most beautiful cities, spending time here reminds me of being stuck on a paradise island located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
For the first few days one is flabbergasted by the sheer beauty and charm of such a place, however after the three day honeymoon period the limitations of such a place become apparent.
Don’t get me wrong Venice is truly remarkable and a ‘must visit’ for any self respecting traveller but once the sights and landmarks have been visited there exists very little else due to the fact that Venice is effectively an island cut off from the Italian mainland.
This view led me to pity the youth that have grown up around the town. Restrictive space makes many childhood recreations impractical and the teenage years hold little better in terms of sources of amusement. To me it came as no surprise that the faces that fill the manic streets comprise mainly of tourists and ageing locals, no kids playing football or teenagers gathering around an area.
Nevertheless just as many others do, we certainly fell under the cities charm during our few days in Venice. The quaint streets and buildings that stand around the cities canals almost make for a surreal never land. A day spent walking around the town is pretty much a photographers dream due to the unique beauty and architecture that cannot be rivalled anywhere else. Somewhat inevitably though the iconic status that the city has achieved has led to an inflation of prices and personally I felt that the quality of the food didn’t match the cost. A probable result of the greed and selfishness that operates behind a city so evidently driven for the desire to obtain the Euro’s of those who visit.
Upon doing a little research I was surprised to learn that Venice was once a primary trading port for all of Europe and even today is an important cog of Italian industry dismissing the opinion that Venice solely relies on tourism for its very existence. An achievement in itself given that the city was initially constructed on marshland and continues to stand strong today despite reports of sinking.
As we prepare to take the short journey south to another notoriously beautiful city, Florence, we can only hope that it can rival Venice in terms of unique beauty and personality; however I hope that the tourist industry isn’t quite as evident in life in the city. It will be interesting to see how well Venice really resembles all things Italian when compared to another of Italy’s great cities.
For the first few days one is flabbergasted by the sheer beauty and charm of such a place, however after the three day honeymoon period the limitations of such a place become apparent.
Don’t get me wrong Venice is truly remarkable and a ‘must visit’ for any self respecting traveller but once the sights and landmarks have been visited there exists very little else due to the fact that Venice is effectively an island cut off from the Italian mainland.
This view led me to pity the youth that have grown up around the town. Restrictive space makes many childhood recreations impractical and the teenage years hold little better in terms of sources of amusement. To me it came as no surprise that the faces that fill the manic streets comprise mainly of tourists and ageing locals, no kids playing football or teenagers gathering around an area.
Nevertheless just as many others do, we certainly fell under the cities charm during our few days in Venice. The quaint streets and buildings that stand around the cities canals almost make for a surreal never land. A day spent walking around the town is pretty much a photographers dream due to the unique beauty and architecture that cannot be rivalled anywhere else. Somewhat inevitably though the iconic status that the city has achieved has led to an inflation of prices and personally I felt that the quality of the food didn’t match the cost. A probable result of the greed and selfishness that operates behind a city so evidently driven for the desire to obtain the Euro’s of those who visit.
Upon doing a little research I was surprised to learn that Venice was once a primary trading port for all of Europe and even today is an important cog of Italian industry dismissing the opinion that Venice solely relies on tourism for its very existence. An achievement in itself given that the city was initially constructed on marshland and continues to stand strong today despite reports of sinking.
As we prepare to take the short journey south to another notoriously beautiful city, Florence, we can only hope that it can rival Venice in terms of unique beauty and personality; however I hope that the tourist industry isn’t quite as evident in life in the city. It will be interesting to see how well Venice really resembles all things Italian when compared to another of Italy’s great cities.
Vienna
Visiting Austria’s capital city it is not hard to see why Vienna has so often been a focal point in European history.
Vienna’s renowned architecture dominates the city’s streets, as the predominantly gothic structures leave even the most architecturally naive visitor dazzled. Come to think of it that is pretty much applicable to me.
Arriving in the cities Westbahnhof train station we jumped in the nearest taxi and headed for our hotel. The taxi driver was a charismatic middle aged man who spoke English at a rapid rate, enlightening us with pearls of wisdom to help make the most of our stay in the city.
As we headed out to explore for the first time we headed towards the city’s famous Ringstrasse area but on the way became sidetracked by lots of dazzling lights. We had managed to stumble upon one of Vienna’s famous Christmas markets staged in one of the cities many parks, on the 13th of November! Don’t get me wrong I’m not Christmas’ biggest fan but neither am I Scrooge reincarnated, but Christmas markets in mid November? We made our way through the crowds as all the while our noses were caressed with the smell of warmed mulled wine, somewhat of a delicacy on the continent it may seem.
By the time we had taken in the large amount of stalls and spectacular Christmas decorations I had reached about 2/10 on the Christmas excitement scale. You can expect the next development around about December 24th.
The following morning we again headed for the Ringstrasse. We hopped on a tram and headed to the end of the line where we expected to be immediately thrust with bustling crowds. Instead we appeared to be in an outer city suburb and after quick deliberation we concluded that we must have took the tram to the wrong end of the line. Following a brief conversation with an elderly lady who stank of alcohol but was adamant that she knew where Cornwall was, we hopped back on the tram.
True to our prediction we did indeed want to stop at the opposite end of the line and funnily enough the opposite end of the line was about five minutes from our hotel and a stonesthrow from the Christmas market from the night before meaning that we needn’t had even got on a tram in the first place. Certainly a lesson learnt there.
We spent the rest of the day strolling around the stunning Ringstrasse, taking in the breathtaking landmarks such as the Imperial Palace, Town Hall and City Park. All of the buildings appear on such a grand scale and certainly do more than hint to the city’s royal past.
As we headed back to our hotel through the brand shops and sidewalk cafes that line the city’s main shopping district, we noticed a series of crowds gathering to watch the street performers that come to the area hoping to take a few tourist Euro’s. Our personal favourite was a spray painter who created beautiful canvases within just a few minutes. Such raw talent on display drew in dozens of spectators.
The people of Vienna are amongst the friendliest people we have met on our travels so far, from the taxi driver to supermarket workers everyone is more than willing to instigate a conversation and attempt to impress you with their English.
Spending a few days in the city you cannot fail to notice Vienna’s large student population. Fresh faces distribute leaflets to accompany frequent fly posting around the city’s transport hubs notifying anybody who will listen about numerous demonstrations being staged around the city. Old favourite’s anti-war and no to animal testing predominantly figure.
Austria it appears is a great city for any age to visit, especially as the build up to the festive period intensifies!
Vienna’s renowned architecture dominates the city’s streets, as the predominantly gothic structures leave even the most architecturally naive visitor dazzled. Come to think of it that is pretty much applicable to me.
Arriving in the cities Westbahnhof train station we jumped in the nearest taxi and headed for our hotel. The taxi driver was a charismatic middle aged man who spoke English at a rapid rate, enlightening us with pearls of wisdom to help make the most of our stay in the city.
As we headed out to explore for the first time we headed towards the city’s famous Ringstrasse area but on the way became sidetracked by lots of dazzling lights. We had managed to stumble upon one of Vienna’s famous Christmas markets staged in one of the cities many parks, on the 13th of November! Don’t get me wrong I’m not Christmas’ biggest fan but neither am I Scrooge reincarnated, but Christmas markets in mid November? We made our way through the crowds as all the while our noses were caressed with the smell of warmed mulled wine, somewhat of a delicacy on the continent it may seem.
By the time we had taken in the large amount of stalls and spectacular Christmas decorations I had reached about 2/10 on the Christmas excitement scale. You can expect the next development around about December 24th.
The following morning we again headed for the Ringstrasse. We hopped on a tram and headed to the end of the line where we expected to be immediately thrust with bustling crowds. Instead we appeared to be in an outer city suburb and after quick deliberation we concluded that we must have took the tram to the wrong end of the line. Following a brief conversation with an elderly lady who stank of alcohol but was adamant that she knew where Cornwall was, we hopped back on the tram.
True to our prediction we did indeed want to stop at the opposite end of the line and funnily enough the opposite end of the line was about five minutes from our hotel and a stonesthrow from the Christmas market from the night before meaning that we needn’t had even got on a tram in the first place. Certainly a lesson learnt there.
We spent the rest of the day strolling around the stunning Ringstrasse, taking in the breathtaking landmarks such as the Imperial Palace, Town Hall and City Park. All of the buildings appear on such a grand scale and certainly do more than hint to the city’s royal past.
As we headed back to our hotel through the brand shops and sidewalk cafes that line the city’s main shopping district, we noticed a series of crowds gathering to watch the street performers that come to the area hoping to take a few tourist Euro’s. Our personal favourite was a spray painter who created beautiful canvases within just a few minutes. Such raw talent on display drew in dozens of spectators.
The people of Vienna are amongst the friendliest people we have met on our travels so far, from the taxi driver to supermarket workers everyone is more than willing to instigate a conversation and attempt to impress you with their English.
Spending a few days in the city you cannot fail to notice Vienna’s large student population. Fresh faces distribute leaflets to accompany frequent fly posting around the city’s transport hubs notifying anybody who will listen about numerous demonstrations being staged around the city. Old favourite’s anti-war and no to animal testing predominantly figure.
Austria it appears is a great city for any age to visit, especially as the build up to the festive period intensifies!
Friday 12 November 2010
Budapest
One would never imagine that Budapest is a city that has suffered at the hands of two different totalitarian regimes in the past 80 years. Beautiful renaissance buildings and famous landmarks combine to make the city good value for its place at the top of the ‘city break’ category in any travel brochure.
Arriving in Budapest late afternoon we proceeded to promptly get ripped off by a taxi driver who thoroughly took advantage of the fact that after withdrawing thousands of the local currency (one Hungarian Forint being equivalent to £0.003), I had no real grasp of the worth of the currency in hand.
Fortunately this was the only minor blemish during our stop at enchanting Budapest.
The first night we tucked into a meal at the Irish bar yards from our hotel. Delightful staff and wonderful food more than made up for the incident earlier on in the day.
Normally I am not one for tours of a city, preferring to navigate my own way around the noteworthy points. In Berlin the public transport easily made this possible, and in Krakow and Bratislava the majority of sights existed in close proximity to one another making walking between the places possible. However, in Budapest a tour is a must!
The city itself sits astride a gentle curb in the Danube and comprises of three former towns that merged to form the city today. The two main districts are Buda, a hilly area located on one side of the Danube and home to the castle amongst other landmarks, and Pest which is a flat area on the other side of Danube. Pest is home to Heroes Square, the main city park and all the major shopping and economic areas of the city.
So with the landmarks so separated, we purchased a 48 hour tour that allows you to hop on and off as you please with buses running at regular intervals throughout the day. The flexibility of the ticket is especially useful and allowed for us to go back the next day with a greater idea of the areas that we wanted to visit more thoroughly.
The tour took in several amazing landmarks all a fantastic sight and a photographer’s heaven, but it is at night when the landmarks take on a whole new level. Light illuminate each and allow for even the most novice of photographers so capture some pictures of a lifetime. The castle and chain bridge were my particular photographic success stories and I later went back to the bridge to take some long exposure images to capture the intensity of traffic that whizzes by this precious landmark.
Visiting Budapest it is easy to forget that the city suffered greatly at the hands of both Nazi and Soviet forces, who both occupied the city one after another. The old buildings remain well preserved and the new ones a sign that the city has flourished under the capitalism which was absent for so long.
To really understand the human cost of the occupations we visited the Terror House Museum which explains the pain suffered by the Hungarian citizens during the past century. A bargain admission price of 900 Forint makes the museum a great place to spend an afternoon.
As we prepare to take the short journey to Vienna, I can now thoroughly understand why Budapest is such a sought after destination for a weekend away.
Arriving in Budapest late afternoon we proceeded to promptly get ripped off by a taxi driver who thoroughly took advantage of the fact that after withdrawing thousands of the local currency (one Hungarian Forint being equivalent to £0.003), I had no real grasp of the worth of the currency in hand.
Fortunately this was the only minor blemish during our stop at enchanting Budapest.
The first night we tucked into a meal at the Irish bar yards from our hotel. Delightful staff and wonderful food more than made up for the incident earlier on in the day.
Normally I am not one for tours of a city, preferring to navigate my own way around the noteworthy points. In Berlin the public transport easily made this possible, and in Krakow and Bratislava the majority of sights existed in close proximity to one another making walking between the places possible. However, in Budapest a tour is a must!
The city itself sits astride a gentle curb in the Danube and comprises of three former towns that merged to form the city today. The two main districts are Buda, a hilly area located on one side of the Danube and home to the castle amongst other landmarks, and Pest which is a flat area on the other side of Danube. Pest is home to Heroes Square, the main city park and all the major shopping and economic areas of the city.
So with the landmarks so separated, we purchased a 48 hour tour that allows you to hop on and off as you please with buses running at regular intervals throughout the day. The flexibility of the ticket is especially useful and allowed for us to go back the next day with a greater idea of the areas that we wanted to visit more thoroughly.
The tour took in several amazing landmarks all a fantastic sight and a photographer’s heaven, but it is at night when the landmarks take on a whole new level. Light illuminate each and allow for even the most novice of photographers so capture some pictures of a lifetime. The castle and chain bridge were my particular photographic success stories and I later went back to the bridge to take some long exposure images to capture the intensity of traffic that whizzes by this precious landmark.
Visiting Budapest it is easy to forget that the city suffered greatly at the hands of both Nazi and Soviet forces, who both occupied the city one after another. The old buildings remain well preserved and the new ones a sign that the city has flourished under the capitalism which was absent for so long.
To really understand the human cost of the occupations we visited the Terror House Museum which explains the pain suffered by the Hungarian citizens during the past century. A bargain admission price of 900 Forint makes the museum a great place to spend an afternoon.
As we prepare to take the short journey to Vienna, I can now thoroughly understand why Budapest is such a sought after destination for a weekend away.
Tuesday 9 November 2010
Bratislava
I shuddered as I read mixed reviews about our next hotel, Bratislava’s Kyjev Hotel. I couldn’t help but want to stay there at its discounted rates but after belatedly reading reviews I began to question the intelligence of this decision. From the outside the building looked more a communist relic that a hotel, a giant grey building that overlooks much of the neighbouring streets of Slovakia’s capital.
Fearing the worse we entered the room and although it had its flaws, at the price we really couldn’t complain as it was after all a cheap place to get our heads down and an opportunity to save some money in the process. For any young people passing through the hotel is ideal, I just wouldn’t recommend the place to honeymooning couples. The WIFI, pool, impressive breakfast and cheap bar all added bonuses.
Again, arriving at a destination on a Sunday evening wasn’t planning perfection. With the large Tesco complex next door shut, we were once again forced into the hands of Ronald Mcdonald.
Looking out our sixth floor window was a beautiful view of the city’s skyline with the bright lights of the castle shining forth looking down on the streets below. To the left drab communist housing blocks still stand strong and to the right the beautiful orange roofs of the cities old town. Once again the conflicting identities of a cities past standing side by side.
A short walk into the Old Town and we were dazzled. Tidy apartments overlook the quaint cobbled streets lined with cafes and restaurants. The rush of the city is nowhere to be seen as people saunter from cafe to cafe at their whim. On the edge of the beautiful Old Town stands the castle. A magnificent structure rebuilt in the 1960s after the old one was destroyed by fire. The castles location, perched on top of a hill offers some stunning views across the city. Numerous other churches and landmarks also exist across the old town.
Although the Old Town only accounts for a fraction of the cities area, it definitely makes the city worth a visit. Bratislava is right up there with other European cities in terms of beauty spots, a real gem.
Fearing the worse we entered the room and although it had its flaws, at the price we really couldn’t complain as it was after all a cheap place to get our heads down and an opportunity to save some money in the process. For any young people passing through the hotel is ideal, I just wouldn’t recommend the place to honeymooning couples. The WIFI, pool, impressive breakfast and cheap bar all added bonuses.
Again, arriving at a destination on a Sunday evening wasn’t planning perfection. With the large Tesco complex next door shut, we were once again forced into the hands of Ronald Mcdonald.
Looking out our sixth floor window was a beautiful view of the city’s skyline with the bright lights of the castle shining forth looking down on the streets below. To the left drab communist housing blocks still stand strong and to the right the beautiful orange roofs of the cities old town. Once again the conflicting identities of a cities past standing side by side.
A short walk into the Old Town and we were dazzled. Tidy apartments overlook the quaint cobbled streets lined with cafes and restaurants. The rush of the city is nowhere to be seen as people saunter from cafe to cafe at their whim. On the edge of the beautiful Old Town stands the castle. A magnificent structure rebuilt in the 1960s after the old one was destroyed by fire. The castles location, perched on top of a hill offers some stunning views across the city. Numerous other churches and landmarks also exist across the old town.
Although the Old Town only accounts for a fraction of the cities area, it definitely makes the city worth a visit. Bratislava is right up there with other European cities in terms of beauty spots, a real gem.
Krakow
As our train bounded along its ten hour journey from Berlin’s impressively structured Hauptbahnhof station towards Krakow, the contrasts between Germany and Poland become evident soon after crossing the border.
The run down estates and derelict buildings that bare testimony to Poland’s tragic past appear as a scar upon the landscape as the train motors through. Poland has a chequered past and has suffered greatly at the hands of the invading Nazi’s and then Communist rule, leaving a legacy of mass unemployment and a devastated economy. Although the country has recovered remarkably, it does still seem to be somewhat behind neighbouring Germany.
As we approach Krakow, the urban landscape becomes more visually pleasant as Southern Poland didn’t suffer the same destruction witnessed by much of the rest of the country during the Second World War, making Krakow comfortably the country’s most beautiful city.
A rare wind swept through Krakow during our stay, yet the overall temperature was warmer than Berlin, presumably attributed to the cities more Southern location.
After politely declining the offer of a guided tour we decided to visit the cities attraction by foot, saving around 100 Polish Zloty in the process.
This proved an inspired decision and powered by some tasty takeaway noodles we visited Florian’s Gate, The Barbican, Market Square and the castle of Wavel Hill.
The castle proved a particularly fun attraction as dressed up characters and traditional folk musicians lined the ascent to the castle.
Krakow’s stunning architecture and natural beauty was enhanced further by the beautiful Autumn leaves which lined the cities parkways and cobbled streets.
Natural beauty and stunning architecture aside the city comes alive at night as numerous bars cater for Europe’s booze tourists at relatively ‘Eastern’ prices. Unfortunately for us our budget prevented us from indulging in night time entertainment, not that the liver minded! Instead we wandered the streets by evening taking photographs of the beautifully illuminated landmarks.
On our second day we took the pilgrimage to the ancient Jewish district of Kaciemierz (spelling?). A once thriving Jewish town, the barren and quiet streets featuring the occasional synagogue that help remind of a persecuted past where many of the former residents were moved to concentration camps by Nazi invaders. Today the Jewish population of the area has dropped to just 200 from over 1,500 a century ago.
As the time came for us to leave Krakow I was left impressed by the beauty of the city of Krakow, and although much of Poland is not quite as aesthetically appealing, I am sure that the developing nation will be a more than capable co-host of the 2012 European football championships.
A special mention must go to Slawek, a highly intelligent and friendly Polish university student with whom we were lucky enough to share a cabin with on the train to Bratislava. I hope his head didn’t hurt too much from the amount of questions we threw at him about life in Poland!
The run down estates and derelict buildings that bare testimony to Poland’s tragic past appear as a scar upon the landscape as the train motors through. Poland has a chequered past and has suffered greatly at the hands of the invading Nazi’s and then Communist rule, leaving a legacy of mass unemployment and a devastated economy. Although the country has recovered remarkably, it does still seem to be somewhat behind neighbouring Germany.
As we approach Krakow, the urban landscape becomes more visually pleasant as Southern Poland didn’t suffer the same destruction witnessed by much of the rest of the country during the Second World War, making Krakow comfortably the country’s most beautiful city.
A rare wind swept through Krakow during our stay, yet the overall temperature was warmer than Berlin, presumably attributed to the cities more Southern location.
After politely declining the offer of a guided tour we decided to visit the cities attraction by foot, saving around 100 Polish Zloty in the process.
This proved an inspired decision and powered by some tasty takeaway noodles we visited Florian’s Gate, The Barbican, Market Square and the castle of Wavel Hill.
The castle proved a particularly fun attraction as dressed up characters and traditional folk musicians lined the ascent to the castle.
Krakow’s stunning architecture and natural beauty was enhanced further by the beautiful Autumn leaves which lined the cities parkways and cobbled streets.
Natural beauty and stunning architecture aside the city comes alive at night as numerous bars cater for Europe’s booze tourists at relatively ‘Eastern’ prices. Unfortunately for us our budget prevented us from indulging in night time entertainment, not that the liver minded! Instead we wandered the streets by evening taking photographs of the beautifully illuminated landmarks.
On our second day we took the pilgrimage to the ancient Jewish district of Kaciemierz (spelling?). A once thriving Jewish town, the barren and quiet streets featuring the occasional synagogue that help remind of a persecuted past where many of the former residents were moved to concentration camps by Nazi invaders. Today the Jewish population of the area has dropped to just 200 from over 1,500 a century ago.
As the time came for us to leave Krakow I was left impressed by the beauty of the city of Krakow, and although much of Poland is not quite as aesthetically appealing, I am sure that the developing nation will be a more than capable co-host of the 2012 European football championships.
A special mention must go to Slawek, a highly intelligent and friendly Polish university student with whom we were lucky enough to share a cabin with on the train to Bratislava. I hope his head didn’t hurt too much from the amount of questions we threw at him about life in Poland!
Berlin
With five years having passed since my maiden voyage abroad and my last visit to Berlin, I sat waiting to board the plane from Luton airport wandering if the city will generate the same feelings this time around.
We arrived late afternoon and successfully navigated ourselves from Schipnol Airport to our Bed and Breakfast in the leafy district of Kleispark, courtesy of a brief bus journey and then a trip on the fantastic underground system that connects all corners of one of Europe’s biggest cities.
We were greeted by our friendly host Andreas who demonstrated his excellent local knowledge by reeling off bus numbers as if he was remembering his family’s birthdays. The facilities were just what we desired, a clean and spacious themed room with toilet and shower facilities just down the corridor. The kitchen also had all the necessaries on offer and a tasty continental breakfast was left for us each morning.
Arriving late on a Sunday afternoon isn’t ideal when hunger urges start to kick in at around 6pm. After being dispatched to locate a supermarket, I arrived back with just a couple of slices of pizza from an excellent street Delhi at the end of our street which acted as our quick feed throughout the week. It seems it isn’t just England that enforces that all of its stores close early on a Sunday.
With three full days to enjoy the city we devised a rough plan to help make the most of our visit. On Monday we would visit all the sights of the city, on Tuesday we would make the sombre trip to Saschenhausen Concentration Camp 35km or so outside of the city before visiting the zoo on our final day.
Our first port of call on our one-day whirlwind site seeing tour was Alexanderplatz and the impressively high TV Tower. After purchasing a ticket we found ourselves with an hour and a half to kill before our allotted time to scale the tower so we spent the time in the best possible way, getting cursed by a gypsy. Foolishly I read the card of a woman, who quite frankly didn’t look that poor, and before long her daughter was shouting expletives at me after my refusal to give up my water. Before I am accused to being a bad person let it be said that a family smoking cigarettes and pushing their baby in a newish wheelchair don’t seem the most authentic charity cases to me. Away from the conflict, the top of the TV Tower offered views across one of Europe’s most historic cities.
From Alexanderplatz we hopped on the underground and took the short journey to Potsdamer Platz, another of Berlin’s sparkling inner city areas, gleaming of cosmopolitan modernism.
A short walk down the road and we were at the famous Brandenburg Gate, an impressive structure seen by many as the symbol of Germany for many years. Just across the way is the Reichstag, the German parliament building which is also well worth a look.
After taking a few photographs of both the previously mentioned attractions we became visible tourists as we finger followed a map around Unter De Linden before arriving at the former crossing point between East and West, Checkpoint Charlie. Then after a taxi ride spent discussing German football with the driver, we were back at our temporary residence with the feeling we had walked half of Germany.
On the Tuesday we visited Saschenhausen just outside of Berlin. The eerie silence said it all and as we wandered around the site, we tried to contemplate the atrocities that took place right where we stood. I have said previously and will say again that these places should be made compulsory to visit as they provide a sense of humbleness and place aspects of our lives into perspective somewhat.
A few hours and another flawless journey on the Berlin public transport later and we were back at the Brandenburg Gate, stopping to take a few photographs of the now illuminated gate. Another day of much walking and we thought that we deserved a good feed so we indulged in an excellent steak before heading back to put our feet up.
Our final day we visited the zoo after hearing good feedback about the place. True to what we heard the zoo was on the whole quite impressive, an interesting array of species who all at least appeared to be content in their confined surroundings although the lion did appear to be pacing its quarters, perhaps just in preparation for a feed or access to his outside pen we hoped.
To summarize my second visit to Berlin is to just remind myself of all the traits that made me love the city in the first instance. A bustling cosmopolitan area, yet somehow possessed a relaxed atmosphere not usually synonymous with a capital city, let alone one of such size and importance. Berlin is easily somewhere where I can envisage myself living, infinite things to do all connected by a flawless transport network, one which is never late or delayed. In a modern city like Berlin it is hard to grasp the sometimes tragic history of the place when the city appears so clean and modern.
We arrived late afternoon and successfully navigated ourselves from Schipnol Airport to our Bed and Breakfast in the leafy district of Kleispark, courtesy of a brief bus journey and then a trip on the fantastic underground system that connects all corners of one of Europe’s biggest cities.
We were greeted by our friendly host Andreas who demonstrated his excellent local knowledge by reeling off bus numbers as if he was remembering his family’s birthdays. The facilities were just what we desired, a clean and spacious themed room with toilet and shower facilities just down the corridor. The kitchen also had all the necessaries on offer and a tasty continental breakfast was left for us each morning.
Arriving late on a Sunday afternoon isn’t ideal when hunger urges start to kick in at around 6pm. After being dispatched to locate a supermarket, I arrived back with just a couple of slices of pizza from an excellent street Delhi at the end of our street which acted as our quick feed throughout the week. It seems it isn’t just England that enforces that all of its stores close early on a Sunday.
With three full days to enjoy the city we devised a rough plan to help make the most of our visit. On Monday we would visit all the sights of the city, on Tuesday we would make the sombre trip to Saschenhausen Concentration Camp 35km or so outside of the city before visiting the zoo on our final day.
Our first port of call on our one-day whirlwind site seeing tour was Alexanderplatz and the impressively high TV Tower. After purchasing a ticket we found ourselves with an hour and a half to kill before our allotted time to scale the tower so we spent the time in the best possible way, getting cursed by a gypsy. Foolishly I read the card of a woman, who quite frankly didn’t look that poor, and before long her daughter was shouting expletives at me after my refusal to give up my water. Before I am accused to being a bad person let it be said that a family smoking cigarettes and pushing their baby in a newish wheelchair don’t seem the most authentic charity cases to me. Away from the conflict, the top of the TV Tower offered views across one of Europe’s most historic cities.
From Alexanderplatz we hopped on the underground and took the short journey to Potsdamer Platz, another of Berlin’s sparkling inner city areas, gleaming of cosmopolitan modernism.
A short walk down the road and we were at the famous Brandenburg Gate, an impressive structure seen by many as the symbol of Germany for many years. Just across the way is the Reichstag, the German parliament building which is also well worth a look.
After taking a few photographs of both the previously mentioned attractions we became visible tourists as we finger followed a map around Unter De Linden before arriving at the former crossing point between East and West, Checkpoint Charlie. Then after a taxi ride spent discussing German football with the driver, we were back at our temporary residence with the feeling we had walked half of Germany.
On the Tuesday we visited Saschenhausen just outside of Berlin. The eerie silence said it all and as we wandered around the site, we tried to contemplate the atrocities that took place right where we stood. I have said previously and will say again that these places should be made compulsory to visit as they provide a sense of humbleness and place aspects of our lives into perspective somewhat.
A few hours and another flawless journey on the Berlin public transport later and we were back at the Brandenburg Gate, stopping to take a few photographs of the now illuminated gate. Another day of much walking and we thought that we deserved a good feed so we indulged in an excellent steak before heading back to put our feet up.
Our final day we visited the zoo after hearing good feedback about the place. True to what we heard the zoo was on the whole quite impressive, an interesting array of species who all at least appeared to be content in their confined surroundings although the lion did appear to be pacing its quarters, perhaps just in preparation for a feed or access to his outside pen we hoped.
To summarize my second visit to Berlin is to just remind myself of all the traits that made me love the city in the first instance. A bustling cosmopolitan area, yet somehow possessed a relaxed atmosphere not usually synonymous with a capital city, let alone one of such size and importance. Berlin is easily somewhere where I can envisage myself living, infinite things to do all connected by a flawless transport network, one which is never late or delayed. In a modern city like Berlin it is hard to grasp the sometimes tragic history of the place when the city appears so clean and modern.
Thursday 21 October 2010
One week until take off!
Just a quick one to say that we are just a week away from departing Cornwall stopping briefly at Portsmouth to visit friends before embarking on our European adventure.
Seems weird to think that we are only a week away after so much planning and although nervous, I am rather excited and just want to get on the way.
Anyway I hope you are looking forward to reading about the sights of Europe as much as I am writing about them.
Chris.
Seems weird to think that we are only a week away after so much planning and although nervous, I am rather excited and just want to get on the way.
Anyway I hope you are looking forward to reading about the sights of Europe as much as I am writing about them.
Chris.
Monday 13 September 2010
The proposed route.
After extensive planning I have decided upon a final(ish) route for our proposed journey around Europe. The route takes in nine of what I hope are some of Europe’s most interesting cities, across eight countries.
First things first and our primary mode of transport that will transport us around much of Europe will be the train. This decision was mainly selected according to financial factors, with unlimited travel around Europe for a month available for under £300 and this coupled with the fact that a lot more of Europe’s urban and rural landscape can be witnessed from a train window as opposed to a plane window made the decision a relatively simple one.
The first destination on our whistle-stop tour of Europe is Berlin, the former gateway between East and West that so captivated me four years ago. From my experience I know Berlin to be an incredible and fascinating city, examples of the cities meaningful history exist side by side with cutting edge technology and urban efficiency. Managing to fit in all the sights of a city four times the size of Paris in just three days is impossible, yet we hope to visit a great deal of them such as The Reichstag parliament, the Brandenburg Gate and the Olympiastadion. Perhaps then Fran will share the visual picture of the cosmopolitan haven that I have constantly painted in her mind over the past year and a bit.
Following our visit to Berlin it will be time to get on the train for the first of many hours travelling across Europe by rail, (we will be flying to Berlin ).
Our next destination will be the booming Polish city of Krakow. Famed for being the historic cultural capital of the country, as well as a destination of choice for stag parties and drinking holidays, the city has emerged as a travel hotspot since the fall of the iron curtain.
Complete with recommendation from a Polish friend of mine, what I know of Krakow so far reminds me much of the Czech capital of Prague, a city that has emerged commendably after the establishment of post communist government. I do not want to speculate any further on the city until I have visited but I hope that I have successfully shared the intrigue that makes the city such an interesting and hopefully worthwhile port of call on our European adventure.
From Krakow, we will make the journey south to the Slovakian capital of Bratislava. I have to confess that of all our intended destinations, Bratislava is the one that I know least about. I have learned that the city is, as is the case with several other cities we will travel through, situated on the famous Danube River. A picturesque and historic old town lies just across the river from the stereotypically grey high-rise communist housing blocks, displaying the contrast evident in so many eastern European capitals. Hopefully Bratislava might just be the dark horse to tell about upon our return!
It’s a common theory that the further east you go in Europe, the less money you can expect to pay and we will certainly be hoping to do some penny pinching ourselves when we pass through our most Eastern port of call, Budapest. Hungary, and Budapest in particular has been experiencing the typical post communist tourist boom, and is now spoke of in the same breath as Prague and Amsterdam in terms of drinking holidays. I understand that the city of Budapest is also doing very well in the beauty stakes as well and I look forward to visiting another city along the stretch of water that is the Danube River.
From Budapest we will be heading back westwards into Austria to the capital Vienna, a city described as an ‘architectural extravaganza’, before travelling down through the spectacular Alps down to Italy.
Italy is a land I have heard much about yet have never visited myself so I thought it only right to incorporate the country into my plans.
First of all we will stop at Venice, the place that needs no introduction. Gondolas and tight quaint streets, a city where it is impossible not to get lost, I won’t even try to deny that I will.
From Venice we will hop to Florence to taste firsthand the art and beauty for which it is renowned, maybe even squeezing in a quick trip to that leaning tower down the road if time permits!
Homeward bound from Italy as we head North once again through the spectacular Alps, sampling the picturesque landscape from our train window. I must admit the gruelling 10 hour journey from Berlin to Krakow does not enthral me, but the journey from Italy up to Zurich does!
Just the two nights in Zurich as a stop off before the finale of the adventure in Paris.
Paris, a city of such prestige seemed a perfect destination to end the journey around Europe, the Eiffel Tower, Champ Elysses and the Arc De Triomphe seem a suitable final hoorar. Oh and the fact that I got cheap flights back to Exeter from Charles De Gaulle was an added bonus.
A little introdcuction...
After emerging from 16 years worth of study within the education system, I found myself greeted by the same crossroads that many recently graduated students will be encountering across the country at this present time.
As we ready ourselves for the first September in memory in that we will not be returning to some form of learning establishment, the plunge into the 'real world' has already taken place.
Unfortunately for me the transition from student to working graduate was somewhat halted after an unfortunate sporting accident. After badly breaking my arm during a football match at the end April, I was resigned to accepting that I would not be able to work over the summer while I waited for my arm to recover.
Five long months and a summer of boredom have passed and the bone has practically healed, although my arm does remain as crooked as the edge of a Cornish cliff.
The main interests that have existed throughout my life so far are sports, music and travel. Ultimately I hope to become a sports journalist, putting to good use my degree in Journalism but first I have to rid myself of my 'itchy feet syndrome' developed from a summer of being stuck at home.
Fortunately I have always been somewhat careful with my money, and from previous part time jobs at a supermarket, and then at a local paper I have managed to amass a substantial pot that I have earmarked as my travel fund.
I was first bitten by the 'travel bug' aged 17 when I went on a school excursion to the German capital of Berlin. I was completely infatuated by one of Europe's most modern and historic cities and genuinely did not want to return home upon the trips conclusion.
Since then I have sandwiched a variety of trips into my holidays from education and have visited in chronological order, Spain, Greece, Egypt, The Netherlands, France, Czech Republic and Turkey.
So now, complete with several letters attached to my name, I have decided that it is time to embark on a journey across Europe, a place of so much history and so many iconic sights, cultures and contrasts.
Already purchased is the excellent Lonely Planet book, Europe on a Shoestring, and the planning of the trip is well underway, hopefully beginning on November 1st.
And finally as they say, behind every good man (or so I hope!) is a good woman, and mine, my partner of just over a year, Fran, will be accompanying me on my trip and we hope our trip will be educational, entertaining, iconic, memorable and everything between.
As we ready ourselves for the first September in memory in that we will not be returning to some form of learning establishment, the plunge into the 'real world' has already taken place.
Unfortunately for me the transition from student to working graduate was somewhat halted after an unfortunate sporting accident. After badly breaking my arm during a football match at the end April, I was resigned to accepting that I would not be able to work over the summer while I waited for my arm to recover.
Five long months and a summer of boredom have passed and the bone has practically healed, although my arm does remain as crooked as the edge of a Cornish cliff.
The main interests that have existed throughout my life so far are sports, music and travel. Ultimately I hope to become a sports journalist, putting to good use my degree in Journalism but first I have to rid myself of my 'itchy feet syndrome' developed from a summer of being stuck at home.
Fortunately I have always been somewhat careful with my money, and from previous part time jobs at a supermarket, and then at a local paper I have managed to amass a substantial pot that I have earmarked as my travel fund.
I was first bitten by the 'travel bug' aged 17 when I went on a school excursion to the German capital of Berlin. I was completely infatuated by one of Europe's most modern and historic cities and genuinely did not want to return home upon the trips conclusion.
Since then I have sandwiched a variety of trips into my holidays from education and have visited in chronological order, Spain, Greece, Egypt, The Netherlands, France, Czech Republic and Turkey.
So now, complete with several letters attached to my name, I have decided that it is time to embark on a journey across Europe, a place of so much history and so many iconic sights, cultures and contrasts.
Already purchased is the excellent Lonely Planet book, Europe on a Shoestring, and the planning of the trip is well underway, hopefully beginning on November 1st.
And finally as they say, behind every good man (or so I hope!) is a good woman, and mine, my partner of just over a year, Fran, will be accompanying me on my trip and we hope our trip will be educational, entertaining, iconic, memorable and everything between.
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