Montenegro - September 2016

The Bay of Kotor

The Bay of Kotor

Kotor

Budva

Chilling in Kotor

Budva old town

It may have only been a standalone country since 2006, but what Montenegro lacks in age it more than makes up for in beauty and charm.

Previously a part of Yugoslavia and then Serbia and Montengro, the small country of under 650,000 boasts some of the most beautiful coastal towns in all of the Adriatic Sea area.

Lonely Planet has recently ranked the fortified town of Kotor as its top destination to visit in 2016 and it’s easy to see why.

Kotor is situated in a fjord like bay with the towering limestone cliffs of Mount Lovćen looming all around, providing a stunning backdrop to be absorbed from the various settlements dotted along the water’s edge.

The compact old town area wows visitors with its quaint, cobbled streets, ancient churches and array of quirky boutiques.

Although Montenegro receives a far smaller number of visitors than its illustrious neighbour Croatia, the bargain prices and breath taking scenery make it every bit as appealing.

We were fortunate enough to join an organised tour and spend a morning taking in the bay in all its glory.

We enjoyed a hearty lunch and leisurely stroll around Kotor before moving onto the slightly more developed and marginally less picturesque Budva.

Budva’s walled old town is smaller than that of Kotor and its surroundings are somewhat marred by hotels and development built to cater for its annual influx of primarily Russian citizens.

That said, Budva still possesses a charm and visitors are able to bathe or swim on sandy coastline that backs on to the crumbling old town walls, allowing for some incredible ocean views.

The Montenegrin economy may still be finding its feet but its mini tourism boom bodes well for the future. With thousands of visitors unable to resist its awe-inspiring scenery and cheap prices, the country should well end up cropping up on more and more travel itineraries over the next few years. 

Croatia round two - September 2016

Twelve months ago I was blown away by the heart shaped peninsula of Istria in Northern Croatia.

Its stunning sunsets and old fishing ports such as Rovinj and Pula captivated our minds during a weeklong visit.

However, mention Croatia and most people initially think of Dubrovnik so I thought it only right to go back and see what the fuss is about, and tick off Bosnia and Montenego whilst there.

Dubrovnik is famed for its beautiful terracotta roof dominated old town, ringed by large stone walls erected for defence purposed in the 16^th century.

The city was once an independent republic and was also the scene of a seven month siege by Serbian forces following the declaration of Croatian independence in 1991.

It was also the setting for hit TV series Game of Thrones and welcomes thousands of people each year, making it the most visited place in Croatia.

Unfortunately along with these visitors come the most expensive prices in the country and borderline unbearable crowds, including those who disembark from cruise ships moored in the port for the day.

I thoroughly enjoyed my two days exploring Dubrovnik and it is undeniably stunning, complete with a cable car which speedily makes it way to Mount Srdj dramatically overlooking the city.

However the sheer volume of visitors and cost of meals in an otherwise affordable country would controversially lead me to pointing any would-be visitors north to other parts of Croatia instead.

Bosnia - September 2016

"There is only one team in Mostar," snapped the previously jovial shop owner when I innocently asked whether or not he also stocked the shirt of the current champions of Bosnia, Zrinjski Mostar. 

I had tried on the strip of former Yugoslav cup winners Velez Mostar who haven't fared at all well since the disintegration of Yugoslavia. Evicted from their stadium which was then given to Zrinjski and now languishing at the foot of the second tier of the Bosnian footballing pyramid. 

While the shop owner's could be interpreted as a fierce kind of loyalty to his team, it also goes to show the divisions that still exist in Bosnian society more than two decades since the end of the most fierce war seen in Europe since the Second World War and one which claimed near to 100,000 lives and displaced millions of others. 

Zrinjski are the team of Bosnia's Croat population while Velez represent the country's majority Bosniak (Muslim) population. 

When they meet there are fireworks in the stands, literally, and overt displays of nationalistic pride and passion as well as the frenetic waving of Turkish and Croats flags. 

Following the break-up of Yugoslavia, Bosnia's Serb population tried to secure territory for its motherland, a move which was met with resistance by the Bosniaks and Croats who then fell out themselves resulting in a bloody war remembered for ethnic cleansing, mass rape and starvation. 

The war lasted three years and only drew to a close thanks to UN intervention and today, all three populations live alongside and tolerate each other but don't often agree on the best political course of action. 

There are three separate heads of state, one for each slice of the population, and decisions are often made on their behalf from outside the country. It is hoped that EU membership will bring a form of simplicity and stability to Bosnia's governmental hierarchy. 

We arrived in Mostar on a sweltering day (as it so often is we were told), after stopping off at the quaint Turkish town of Pocitelj, a small settlement located on a steep hill and dominated by a large Mosque that looks out over the river and settlement below. 

Bosnia remains the only country this side of Turkey with a Muslim majority after Ottomans settled the area in the 1460s and is among the poorest in Europe.

Today the majority of Mostar's Croat population still lives on the Western side of the city and the Muslim population in the East with Orthodox Serbs sprinkled in on both sides. 

The city, Bosnia's second biggest after the capital Sarajevo is connected by seven bridges including the iconic and grandiose Stari Most bridge, which was completely destroyed and then rebuilt during and following the conflict. 

The city's compact and cobbled old town, some of its buildings riddled with bullet holes, is a hive of activity with shops and stalls selling everything from Turkish tea pots to fridge magnets. 

Restaurants and cafes take advantage of every available viewpoint of the surrounding valley and the winding Neretva River. 

Mostar, named after the guards who kept look out on the bridge, is determined not to forget what happened just over 20 years ago and offers a plethora of museums and photographic exhibitions documenting the atrocities. 

The city was the scene of fierce fighting to control its metal industry with 80% of buildings reduced to rubble during the war. 

Residents have vowed never again and although they may not always agree with their city neighbours, they live alongside each other and peacefully go about their day to day lives. 

The city is beautiful and its people welcoming and hospitable on all sides of the divide, even if visible scars do still exist as a reminder of the conflict on every street corner. 

The buzz is palpable as you make your way around the city. Bosnia was my 29th country and the most fascinating by far and yes, I bought the Velez Mostar shirt and put a smile back on the shop owner's face.