Thursday, 2 June 2016

Mexico, 2016.













SECRETLY I always turned my nose up at people who elect to go on all-inclusive package holidays, likening them to somewhat of a vacation straightjacket where travellers are tied to the hotel they have often paid through to nose to stay at.

So naturally, it’s fair to say that my maiden voyage to Mexico wasn’t as first planned. A travel itch had been eating away at me for some time now.  The itch was called Mexico.

I first had a chance to visit the north American country back in autumn 2013 during time spent travelling around the USA. I had pitched up at a fantastic hostel in the southern Californian city of San Diego, which offered day trips once a week to the Mexican border city of Tijuana.

I had been eagerly anticipating the trip throughout my week spent there, but at the last minute got talked out of it and instead spent an afternoon watching American football, a sport so boring I left at half time and returned to the safety of the pub.

While I was under no illusions and was fully aware that Tijuana is far from the most Mexican of experiences, after all it is a border town best known for being a key drug route into the US and popular destination for America’s underage drinkers, the fact that I passed up an opportunity to visit a new country really pissed me off (seeing the world is a passion of mine as I'm sure you're aware by now).

Fast forward two and a bit years of pure annoyance and sense of missed opportunity and I finally made it, albeit to the opposite end of the country.

As previously touched upon, rather than backpacking or going where the wind took me, I arrived in the Riviera Maya staying in an all-inclusive hotel.

When I previously thought of all-inclusive trips I associated them with being sat by a pool drinking crap beer for two weeks, rarely venturing away from the comforts of the hotel and generally being a waste of an opportunity to see a new country.

However, fast forward two weeks and I can confirm that providing you have the desire to get out and about, you can still see a good chunk of area and get back in time for your already paid for dinner.

Sadly, large swathes of Mexico are poor areas where drugs cartels feud openly in the street as they vie to control the lucrative smuggling routes. However the Mexican government is clearly aware of the beauty, history and culture associated with the Yucatan Peninsula and do their best to keep violent crime away from the area to ensure a steady flow of pesos out of tourist’s pockets and into government coffers.

The Yucatan Peninsula is known for its Caribbean Ocean beaches and Mayan ruins and from the mushrooming resort of Cancun in the north, to the yoga retreats of Tulum in the south, the area is lined with white sand and turquoise water beaches (think postcard Caribbean) and dotted with fascinating crumbling ruins hinting at the mightiest of civilisations.

Originating in the Yucatan around 2600 B.C the Mayans rose to prominence around A.D. 250 in present-day southern Mexico, Guatemala, western Honduras, El Salvador, and northern Belize and developed a highly sophisticated society.

They are known for their ancient writing system as well as art, architecture, calendar and astronomy and many an hour we spent wandering around the most famous of all the ruins, Chichen Itza, and also the cliffstop structures of Tulum, the city first encountered by Spanish colonialists as they arrived.

Mayan traditions are still prevalent despite the one-time Spanish rule and their short, stocky and extremely friendly people can be seen throughout the region, some still living as their ancestors did before the Spaniards became aware Mexico even existed.

Following on from a morning spent at Chichen Itza, we took a dip in one of the plethora of cenotes, natural pits or sinkholes, resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes water underneath. Think underwater cave swimming in the dark, which certainly proved as if not more exhilarating than it sounds.

The cenotes have rightly become attractions in their own right and from there, watered and stuffed with the spicy but tasty traditional local cuisine; we hopped back on board the bus and headed to the city of Valladolid.

Valladolid was founded by Spanish colonialists and named after the Spanish city of the same name.

During a fleeting visit I was fortunate enough to stroll around its quaint streets, lined with picturesque coloured buildings and take some time out at its charming square which is overlooked by a church once used to try and convert Mayans to Christianity. The Spanish were shocked to learn that they originally worshipped a serpent and I was astounded to witness the incredibly slow and almost therapeutic pace of life there.

Visiting the various towns and sights you really get a feel of the area’s history from the ancient Mayan civilisations, through Spanish colonialism, leaving a contemporary hybrid and melting pot of traditions and practices.

Square miles of sprawling jungle and the world’s second longest coral reef makes the peninsula an adrenaline junky's playground and I was fortunate to get out equipped with my trusty GoPro (which I’ve finally got the hang of) and enjoy some snorkelling, abseiling, zip wiring and speedboating. Sea turtles, dolphins, iguanas and various species of fish and birds were among the wildlife that pitched up during our excursions.

By the end of the trip I felt as if I had sampled the best that the Yucatan Peninsula and Riviera Maya had to offer, however our final excursion took me to an extremely special place.

Sian Ka'an is a nature reserve located on a thin strip of land with the Caribbean Ocean lapping it on one side and the most turquoise of lagoons featuring plenty of crocodiles on the other.

The area is teeming with wildlife and is also home to a group of people whose name escapes me.
The able watermen and their families live off the sea, capturing lobster and catering for a controlled number of visitors per week and there is just one bumpy road in and out of the civilisation Punta Allen, located an hours’ drive from Tulum.

The landscape is fit to grace any postcard and the residents there are relaxed, friendly and content despite living the most basic of lives. How I envy them and long to be back there as I sit at my desk this Friday afternoon.


Tuesday, 19 April 2016

 St Basil's Cathedral, Moscow, Russia.
 St Basil's Cathedral and Red Square, Moscow, Russia.
 The walls of the Kremlin, Moscow, Russia.
 Lokomotiv Moscow ultras.
 St Basil's Cathedral, Moscow, Russia.
 Riga, Latvia.
Riga, Latvia.
  Riga, Latvia.
CSKA Moscow fans getting in the mood.

Riga, Latvia and Moscow, Russia - April 2016

Judge as you find is a mantra handed down to me by my open minded mother, a woman who can't help but see the good in the majority of the people she meets.

When I announced my intention to travel East to behind what was formerly the Iron Curtain and into Russia I was greeted with choruses of "are you mad", "you'll get killed" and "what do you want to do that for".

Barely a week at home goes by without news beamed across the BBC network of Russian leader Vladimir Putin either flexing his political muscles distancing himself further from the west in what is increasingly becoming a throwback to the Cold War era, a probe into a poisoned spy, or brutal military intervention in Syria.

I must confess that I did have some reservations (although not enough to put me off coming) and thought that we would have to watch our step a little, but in truth what I've discovered during my own personal time spent in Moscow is that the people living in the city are friendly, warm, welcoming, helpful and speak surprisingly good English, contrary to my one word Russian vocabulary of spaseeba.

We warmed up with a day and night in the charming Latvian city of Riga, a quaint cobbled city typical of so many other smaller Easter European outposts.

Again, the locals were a friendly bunch and couldn't do enough for us. Riga itself is relatively small in size (a population of well under a million and is easy to navigate on foot) its picturesque old town packed with bars, restaurants, stunning architecture, grand church spires and bustling market stalls.

However as nice as Riga was, it was far from the main event. After touching down in Moscow we hopped in a cab and headed past nondescript Soviet high rise blocks and into what quickly became a smart, clean and awe-inspiring city.

We wasted no time in hitting the town for a Friday night in a place which is as famous for its nightlife as it is its historic landmarks marking poignant moments in Russian history and boy, did it not disappoint.

Our destination of choice for an unexpected two night stay was a nightclub named Gipsy.

Gipsy, as is the case with many Russian clubs, exercises a strict face control policy whereby only people deemed good looking or rich enough are allowed to enter.

Fortunately for us, our English accent was detected in the sizeable queue which had already seen people turned away who would probably considered in the more attractive proportion of the population back in the UK. 

After a quick pat down we were allowed to enter what turned out to be an absolute assault on the senses. Two large rooms made up the vast majority of the complex which was packed with Russia's glamorous, wealthy and powerful clad in some of the swankiest get up I've ever seen.

Face control ensured the club was never over crowded as the DJs spun their tunes until the time that my alarm would usually sound for work. A combination of adrenaline, vodka and red bull and knowing the fact that we'd blagged our way into a club that never in our wildest dreams would we be able to enter back home, ensured we were among the last to leave two nights in succession.

A walk around Gipsy sees an impressive plethora of services including a tapas bar, restaurant, ball pool and even a kebab shop to combat late night/ early morning cravings.

The two indescribable vodka-fuelled nights proved to not be enough to spoil our days however and we also wolfed down some tasty culinary treats provided by the  courteous, polite and attentive waiting staff, to help power us through our sightseeing itinerary. 

Moscow itself is so clean that it almost glistened in the April warmth which ensured chills the icy that we'd been told to expect would never trouble us during our stay.

The sights need little introduction or description but must be seen to be believed. The Kremlin, St Basil's Cathedral and Red Square are all rightly marvelled at by all those who stop by to snap iconic pics immediately uploaded to social media (guilty).

The buildings provide a reminder as to the world superpower that Russia has proved to be throughout history. Nearby hawkers pedal fluffy hats, as well as t-shirts and fridge magnets depicting comical images such as Putin riding a bear holding a shotgun, a gentle reminder of the god-like worship and cult of personality that surrounds the leader.

Being lucky enough to take in a top flight football match and potential title decider between CSKA and Lokomotiv Moscow was an experience that I will never forget and one that trumped matches I've seen across England and Spain.

The game itself was an end to end 1-1 draw which featured no shortage of goal mouth action and drama.

However, despite the entertainment on the field played out by 22 gladiators from around the world, it was the fans off it and particular the ultras that stole the show.

A non-stop 90 minute barrage of ear shredding noise from both sets of fans included flares, fireworks and curiously mosh pits, with no sign of any hooliganism, perhaps to do with the fact half the Russian army looked to have been deployed to maintain order.

Comparing Moscow to other parts of the geographically largest country in the world would be unfair and unrealistic as poverty and famine still hold a vice like grip in some of the more isolated rural areas, whilst Moscovites live lives of flash cars and Louis Vutton bags.  However, even as Ferraris zip around the wide boulevards, the recent crash of the rouble still means that drinks are cheap and a slap-up meal totals around £10 a head.

Speaking from my own experience I can say that Moscow was undoubtedly worth the considerable hassle of organising a visa and my only regret is not being able to travel further and deeper into a fascinating country which has now captured not only my imagination but also my heart. 

Tuesday, 20 October 2015

Porto, October 2015

Elegantly straddling the meandering estuary of the River Douro, picture perfect Porto deserves to be known as more than just a haven for wine connoisseurs.

While Portugal’s second city is globally famous for the packing, transporting and exporting of port wine, the city also offers stunning views and locals have a refreshingly slow pace of life.

Despite having to get up in the dead of night (1:15am to be exact) to begin our journey from deepest darkest Cornwall, it’s easy to see why Porto is becoming one of Europe’s trendiest weekend getaways.

Less than a two hour flight from Bristol Airport and we were greeted by blue skies and balmy October temperatures. Porto Airport is connected to the city via the efficient and extensive Metro system, meaning that you are in the thick of it within an hour and all for less than three euros.

Defying our distinct lack of sleep, we checked in at the centrally located Hotel Aliados which stands aside the vast avenue of the same name, chucked in our bags and immediately set about seeing what the city had to offer.

As always, we purchased a ticket from one of the city’s three open top bus tours and were ferried around for the afternoon, quickly getting our bearings and establishing points of interest to which we wished to return.

Port caves and factories aside, Porto’s showpiece is undoubtedly the spectacular views from the numerous giant bridges connecting both sides of the River Douro.

The river is lined on the one side with industry related to port production and on the other, unstable but quaint looking terracotta roofs that stack up and back up towards the city centre and its designer shops.

It’s well worth an afternoon wondering the banks of the Douro and the Ribeira district taking in the charming architecture and sampling some of cuisine at the many family-run restaurants.

In fact, the city is a fantastic place to keep active, offering long walks to sandy beaches and plenty of parks, botanical gardens and panoramic viewing spots to marvel at its splendour.

Porto also has a trendy bar scene, but one that rarely gets going until late, by which time we were often in bed due to our hectic daytime sightseeing schedule.

Although I wasn’t taken by the signature dish the franceschina (meats and bread with melted cheese spoilt by a strange beer sauce), we did manage to locate a small and cheap kitchen serving up the finest chicken and chips that have ever graced my pallet, a dish that trumped the global dining phenomenon Nando’s.

Also worth a mention is the Café Majestic, the spot JK Rowling penned her Harry Potter novels whilst living in the city, a hive of activity that offers splendid interior design and tasty milkshakes.

On the outskirts of the city is the relatively new sporting arena the Estadio Dragao, the home of Portuguese football powerhouse FC Porto built for Euro 2004.

Although neither FC Porto nor the city’s other team Boavista were at home, we managed to look around both stadiums and were taken aback by the grandeur of the Dragao and its magnificent museum which proudly shows off a glittering history complete with hatful’s of league titles and two Champions League winners trophies.

So within a short, inexpensive Easyjet guided hop and easily explorable by foot in just a few days, I’d be surprised if more people don’t start lining the banks of the River Douro to marvel at Porto’s breathtaking natural beauty and soak in its port-fuelled charm.









Wednesday, 16 September 2015

Croatia and Slovenia, September 2015

WHILE the UNESCO heritage site of Dubrovnik may be the image that graces the covers of Croatian guide books, a trip to the northern peninsula of Istria offers a dream break for sightseers, foodies, wine tasters and outdoor enthusiasts.

I picked Istria as our destination for a September getaway solely because the flight times suited our needs - what a successful gamble it proved to be.

After the long and laborious journey to Stansted via a Plymouth Argyle away defeat in Stevenage, we struggled our way through the airport’s frankly shockingly inept passport and security control to finally board our flight.

Based a five minute bus ride outside the working port of Pula, our hotel (Splendid Resort) though basic, offered stunning views of the Adriatic, good transport links and spacious rooms.

Temperatures around the mid-20s kept us sunned throughout the week as we made our way around the rugged, spectacular peninsula.

Pula itself, though a busy dock, offers quaint cobbled streets, a constant buzz of activity and a glorious old Roman amphitheatre that once welcomed crowds of up to 40,000 people.

From Pula (where we ate well each evening) we daytripped to the Brijuni Islands, the former playground of Yugoslav leader Tito.

The islands were green and unspoilt, but the majority of tours do not let you off to explore them. Unfortunately I paid for a tour that didn’t stop so can only advise that others do their homework first.

After a hearty meal of pork chops and cabbage on board we disembarked at a beach packed with German holidaymakers.

Although the beach was unremarkable and pebbled (as the majority of Croatian beaches are), we took the short walk into the coastal town/village (it’s not very big) of Fazana.

Fazana is a picturesque harbour worthy of gracing any postcard, with a church spire towering over the coloured roofs that look out onto the rows and rows of boats.

The following day we made our way to the active fishing port of Rovinj, which for me, was one of the most stunning towns I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting.

Fishermen in Rovinj still haul their catch in each morning from the harbour there after saying their prayers at Saint Euphemia's basilica, an ancient church that stands proudly over the town.

Rovinj is inevitably packed with restaurants and sightseers, but also with beautiful and charming buildings in equal measure which give the town a unique vibe. The town’s landscape cuts out into the Adriatic and the wooded area to the south contains great views and hidden beaches and is well worth a cycle around.

Other day trips included a trip to the cape of Premantura’s Kamenjak national park which is most scenic and offers fantastic watersport and cycling opportunities.

Around an hour’s drive away (I paid for a taxi as I’m too much of a wimp to hire a car overseas) is the Slovenian border.

Five minutes the other side of the passport control are the towns of Portoroz and Piran.

Portoroz mainly consists of expensive hotels and casinos to cater for the hordes of affluent Italian visitors, but Piran really is another jewel of the Istrian peninsula.

Again, a curious egg shaped piece of land that sticks out to sea, the streets are cobbled, compact and overflowing with character and little galleries and shops. Orange roofs illuminate the town’s skyline.

One of Slovenia’s few coastal resorts (Italy lays only a short drive the other side), Piran is well worth a trip for anyone staying in Istria. Although it might not represent a true snapshot of Slovenian life with the rest of the country lying inland, it isn’t hard to see why so many people take time to wander around its streets.

In a nutshell, Istria is laidback and an area of outstanding beauty with plentiful outdoor pursuits and culinary delights on offer.

A week flew by and left me with a desire to return to Croatia and hopefully explore some of the inland towns that I was unable to find time to visit.

The food is cheap and Istrian menu is predominantly a mixture of Italian cuisine and seafood. Although I wasn’t a fan of their speciality truffles, a special shout must go to one of the restaurants along Pula’s main drag that served me up possibly the best steak I’ve ever had complete with garlic butter. Unfortunately its name escapes me so you’ll have to go and search it out yourself.






Tuesday, 15 September 2015

Fazana, Croatia

Fazana, Croatia

Sunset, Verudela, Croatia

Rovinj, Croatia

Pula by night, Croatia

Rovinj, Croatia

Fazana, Croatia

Pula by night, Croatia

Piran, Slovenia

Piran, Slovenia

Piran, Slovenia

Pula, Croatia

Pula, Croatia